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fluxmonkey
Joined: Jun 24, 2005 Posts: 708 Location: cleve
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Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 7:16 pm Post subject:
Mankato filter parts list: PT 1 & 2 Subject description: Resettable fuse? thermistor? ferrite bead?? |
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The parts list for the Mankato filter lists PT 1 & 2 as mouser part# 527-3006-25V50/60C; this is a 25v 50ohm PTC Thermistor. Has anyone used this part, and does it work?
I had thought that this part was supposed to be a resettable fuse, as described on blacet's tech page. If so, i think that part number should be mouser part# 652-MFR010-LF. Can anyone confirm?
Finally, Dave Brown's photo looks like he used ferrite beads for these components....
What's a boy to do???
bbob |
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andrewF
Joined: Dec 29, 2006 Posts: 1176 Location: australia
Audio files: 4
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Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:47 pm Post subject:
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I just used a couple of 10R resistors, works fine. |
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fonik
Joined: Jun 07, 2006 Posts: 3950 Location: Germany
Audio files: 23
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Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:56 pm Post subject:
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i just use 22R, they give some kind of additional protection.
AFAIK if you have problems with noise in your system you should probably use beads. _________________
cheers,
matthias
____________
Big Boss at fonitronik
Tech Buddy at Random*Source |
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etaoin
Joined: Jun 30, 2005 Posts: 761 Location: Utrecht, NL
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Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 1:40 am Post subject:
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I always use beads. Resistors are more of a shortcut protection, but finished modules are unlikely to shortcut so I prefer filtering instead. _________________ http://www.casia.org/modular/ |
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3vcos
Joined: Oct 26, 2006 Posts: 106 Location: California
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Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 11:29 am Post subject:
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What kind of beads? 4001? 4002? Is there any real difference? |
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etaoin
Joined: Jun 30, 2005 Posts: 761 Location: Utrecht, NL
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Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 11:38 am Post subject:
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3vcos wrote: | What kind of beads? 4001? 4002? |
I use 7.6mm axial ferrite beads. I'm not sure what you mean by 4001 and 4002. _________________ http://www.casia.org/modular/ |
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davebr
Joined: Jun 09, 2007 Posts: 198 Location: portland, or
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Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 9:11 pm Post subject:
PT1 & 2 Subject description: PT1 & 2 |
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The Mouser part numbers for the ferrite beads I used are 623-2743001112LF. I just used ferrite beads since that's what the rest of my modules use. I like the protection as designed, but a few modules protected out of so many just isn't worth it. I replaced the diodes with 0.1 decoupling. - Dave
Etaoin wrote: | I use 7.6mm axial ferrite beads. I'm not sure what you mean by 4001 and 4002. |
Last edited by davebr on Sun Jan 27, 2008 9:46 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Tim Servo
Joined: Jul 16, 2006 Posts: 924 Location: Silicon Valley
Audio files: 11
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Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 6:36 pm Post subject:
Re: Mankato filter parts list: PT 1 & 2 Subject description: Resettable fuse? thermistor? ferrite bead?? |
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bbob wrote: | The parts list for the Mankato filter lists PT 1 & 2 as mouser part# 527-3006-25V50/60C; this is a 25v 50ohm PTC Thermistor. Has anyone used this part, and does it work?
I had thought that this part was supposed to be a resettable fuse, as described on blacet's tech page. If so, i think that part number should be mouser part# 652-MFR010-LF. Can anyone confirm?
Finally, Dave Brown's photo looks like he used ferrite beads for these components....
What's a boy to do???
bbob |
Hey Bbob,
There's several alternatives. The circuit is fairly tolerant of different parts there. The part originally in the list is a thermistor that is designed to heat up and go to a very high resistance if there's an overcurrent situation (protection for shorts). The diodes on the DC input are designed to protect against reverse polarity. The whole mess is borrowed from John Blacet's recommendations -
http://www.blacet.com/tech.html
(see the part labeled "protecting modules from power supply problems")
With the part I originally specified, the resistance is too high and so it ends up reducing the power supply rails on the board to about 12 or 13 volts. The circuit still works fine, but the output levels are reduced slightly. We have a new parts list with a different protection thermistor recommendation, along with a few new values for the CV input resistors (changes the range of the Coarse tune control). The new protection thermistors have a value of less than 1 Ohm but still protect the circuit nicely. See the attachments for the latest Mankato parts list.
Now of course, you can leave off PT1 and PT2 and replace them with jumpers or low value resistors (about 10 Ohms). A low value R acts to limit the current into the module, and so still gives some protection if you have a short. You can also leave off the diodes D2 and D3 or replace them with small caps for a little additional supply filtering.
Hopefully this helps clear things up.
Tim (needs some more recent attachments) Servo
Description: |
Magic Smoke Mankato parts list - latest Rev03 as of Jan 2008 |
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TH-201-03 Parts List.pdf |
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593.93 KB |
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495 Time(s) |
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eyehue
Joined: Aug 30, 2007 Posts: 19 Location: flagstaff, arizona
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Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 9:35 pm Post subject:
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A frac plate variation:
eyehue and anomos worked on their first "professional" looking modular plate for this one, Thomas Henry's Mankato Filter using the Magic Smoke PCB. Hand drilled, locally laser-engraved. |
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Tim Servo
Joined: Jul 16, 2006 Posts: 924 Location: Silicon Valley
Audio files: 11
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Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 8:14 am Post subject:
Mankato filter parts list: PT 1 & 2 |
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Nice work! I have to say, I've seen many variations on panels, and the Mankato seems to inspire people to try different layouts (maybe because it has so darned many ins and outs), and this in another great looking example. How did you find the place to do the engraving? I'm assuming you took an anodized plate to them and the laser burns through the coating, exposing the aluminum underneath. Looks sharp, and I'd love to find a place to do something similar.
Thanks for sharing!
Tim (looks sharp, but only with the right lighting) Servo |
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eyehue
Joined: Aug 30, 2007 Posts: 19 Location: flagstaff, arizona
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Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 10:40 pm Post subject:
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thanks Tim!
we took PAiA 3u frac blank plates we drilled to our local printer, who also does engraving for trophies and awards.
all they needed were the plates, which we drilled ourselves, and a pdf and jpg of what we wanted engraved. it was pretty easy and they only charged $7 per panel!
so, i recommend looking for a trophy/award engraver or a hardcore printshop with these capabilities to try it out.
thanks again for the kind words. |
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Luka
Joined: Jun 29, 2007 Posts: 1003 Location: Melb.
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Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 6:33 pm Post subject:
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can i just ask a question about the laser engraving
do you think they would engrave harder metals such as light grade steel or is it just for lighter metals?
my modular has an industria theme goin on and i have built the plates out of corroded thin grade steel that ive found around our warehouse and i have no idea how to make all the writing and pattens on it to annotate the panel features.
i bought a hand engraver and it just managed to put thin scratches in it _________________ problemchild
melbourne australia
http://cycleofproblems.blogspot.com/
http://www.last.fm/user/prblmchild |
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eyehue
Joined: Aug 30, 2007 Posts: 19 Location: flagstaff, arizona
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Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 7:58 pm Post subject:
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not sure how much the laser can etch, but they did a test on the back of our first panel to try out. anyplace would probably want to test a new material first. |
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Tim Servo
Joined: Jul 16, 2006 Posts: 924 Location: Silicon Valley
Audio files: 11
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Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 12:56 am Post subject:
Mankato filter parts list: PT 1 & 2 |
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Hey Luka,
I'm pretty sure the laser doesn't actually etch into the aluminum itself, but instead burns away the anodized coating. If you look at a lot of the stainless steel keychains and other goodies that people etch at the mall, those all have a special coating on them that reacts with the laser and forms the (very durable) black marking. You should ask around, but I don't think the average engraving / marking laser has enough power to actually etch the surface of steel or other metals.
Tim (reasonably durable) Servo |
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Luka
Joined: Jun 29, 2007 Posts: 1003 Location: Melb.
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Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 2:09 am Post subject:
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hmm okay
every way to etch into steel seems to use chemicals but i don't want to eat away the corroded texture on the metal. perhaps i could add a tonne of lacquer to it and then cut thin grooves into that. _________________ problemchild
melbourne australia
http://cycleofproblems.blogspot.com/
http://www.last.fm/user/prblmchild |
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