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richardc64

Joined: Jun 01, 2006 Posts: 478 Location: NYC
Audio files: 12
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Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 8:12 am Post subject:
Found another Relic Subject description: The remains of my d.i.y. RTL Trainer |
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I mounted a piece of non-clad fiberglass on a wood frame and drew logic symbols on it with felt marker. You see here JK flip-flops, inverters and gates, the last looking much like 2-input inverters because that's how they were illustrated in Don Lancaster's RTL Cookbook, making no distinction as to whether they were positive logic NANDs or negative logic NORs. The worst part was drilling all the holes for IC sockets -- without benefit of a drill press! You can see through the board the residue left on the underside from adhesive copper d.i.p. patterns.
All the IC pins (except +V and Gnd,) were brought out to 4-40 screws, thread end up. Experimental patching was done using alligator clipleads. If I were to repeat this method on a Lunetta I'd probably use longish 2-56s.
Once my RTL synth was developed, and solderless breadboards were starting to become available, (replacing the old breadboarding methods of terminal strips, Fahnestock clips and other spring mechanisims,) I felt that this monstrosity was no longer necessary and disassembled it. Eventually I used chunks of the fiberglass board for one purpose or another; small circuits, using more of those adhesive copper patterns, or for small panels.
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_________________ "It's quite OK to make music with tea spoons and rubber bands!" -- Blue Hell |
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droffset

Joined: Feb 02, 2009 Posts: 466 Location: new zealand
Audio files: 2
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Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 2:06 pm Post subject:
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Pretty cool, out of curiosity, how did you connect the wires to the screws? I end up with a messy blob of solder when I try such things, did you use nuts? _________________ ==================
Check out the FREE Intro to Lunettas Document
https://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AZIwOP-PR9sSZDlidzgzbV8wY3RjenJqanY&hl=en
Edit: Spelling mistakes. |
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richardc64

Joined: Jun 01, 2006 Posts: 478 Location: NYC
Audio files: 12
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Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 3:11 pm Post subject:
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I just used solid wire, wrapped a stripped end once around close to the screw-head and tightened down the nut on the other side of the panel. You could also use tinned stranded wire.
Solder generally does not "stick" to screws. _________________ "It's quite OK to make music with tea spoons and rubber bands!" -- Blue Hell |
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electri-fire
Joined: Jul 26, 2006 Posts: 534 Location: breda nl
Audio files: 4
G2 patch files: 4
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Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 5:48 pm Post subject:
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| richardc64 wrote: | | I just used solid wire, wrapped a stripped end once around close to the screw-head and tightened down the nut on the other side of the panel. You could also use tinned stranded wire. |
Yeah... I don't understand this widespread preference for stranded wire. Non-stranded stays put when bent to place, can be bent in all directions (for repair of damaged traces, soldering to cut traces for inserts etc).
Also when soldering to closely spaced pins on existing circuits, with stranded wire you get shorts more often, especially with resoldering.
Tinned stranded wire always breaks where the tinning ends doesn't it? And then shorting. (excuse the rant). |
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RF

Joined: Mar 23, 2007 Posts: 1459 Location: Northern Minnesota, USA
Audio files: 29
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Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 7:14 pm Post subject:
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I've got an Elektor Formant synth that was built back in the '70's - and most of the flying wires and harness were built using solid wire. The first huge job I had to take care of when I got it was to repair a LOT of connections where the solid wire was soldered to the PC board. Solid doesn't flex well, to say the least - especially at the stripped ends.
If you use solid - dress and wire tie very carefully so it will not move.
bruce _________________ www.sdiy.org/rfeng
"I want to make these sounds that go wooo-wooo-ah-woo-woo.”
(Herb Deutsch to Bob Moog ~1963) |
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