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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Circuit Bending
Realistic Reverb
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haricots



Joined: Aug 15, 2007
Posts: 33
Location: guelph

PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2008 1:35 pm    Post subject: Realistic Reverb Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I need a bit of help modifying my Realistic Reverb. My intent is to replace all that I can with better quality parts and then start modifying it bit by bit.

So far I have replaced all the switches with knobs, replaced the power jack (so I can mount it to the new housing), got rid of the battery altogether and put it in an aluminum case. My next step is to replace the SPDT switch with a nicer SPST. Since I am not using batteries I have no need for the 'check battery' position on the original switch. Now the original switch is a 3 position but with an odd configuration (Off, On, battery check). Any tips on just hooking up a simple on/off switch? I also want to add an LED so that it is lit up when the unit is on.

I'm relatively new to all this having only built a few kits before. Smile
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Peake



Joined: Jun 29, 2007
Posts: 1113
Location: Loss Angeles
Audio files: 3

PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2008 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I don't have any answers to your LED question but am interested- which "reverb" of theirs do you have? One with the SAD1024 or a Japanese MN? There were a couple of designs. I modded my 1024 version (which they sold as a kit in the 80s; you could walk into RS and buy 1024s off the rack) to have far slower clock rates for "echo", which of course had terrible clock noise and aliasing in the audio signal. I think that one of the resistors or the time trimpot was useful for this; I may have simply increased the range as it would go back all the way up to clean flanging etc. at one extreme.

In other words, mess with the clock circuit Smile
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haricots



Joined: Aug 15, 2007
Posts: 33
Location: guelph

PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Mine uses the MN3207 and MN3102. I have some documentation on mods for longer delay times which I plan on implementing once I get this switch issue worked out.
I'm attaching the schematic in case anyone feels like helping me out with this. Smile


realistic-reverb-schematic.gif
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Realistic Reverb Schematic.
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Peake



Joined: Jun 29, 2007
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Location: Loss Angeles
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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

First order of business should be to work up an NE572 (smallbear electronics) daughter board for compansion, at minimum of the in/out signal path, then for the feedback path Very Happy
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Uncle Krunkus
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Joined: Jul 11, 2005
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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Is this the little black Realistic Reverb from the early 80s?
3 or 4 sliders with the on/off/batt switch at the side?
Classic little unit that! My friends and I used one for a decade or so when we were first doing home recordings. It was THE vocal pre-amp and treatment solution for every occasion! Laughing
I've grabbed a copy of the schem, as I'd love to play around with the circuit sometime. I actually thought, in retrospect, that it would have had a 3011 in it. The fact that it's just a 3207 is quite remarkable considering the sound we used to get out of it.

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Uncle Krunkus
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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 2:55 am    Post subject:
Subject description: Schem error
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I just wanted to point out that if anyone were to use the above schematic for a build or even just for reference purposes, you should note that the inputs to IC1-B are very vague. (In fact, compared to the rest of the schem the tie points here are non existent. This would result in your BBD simply listening to the sound of C9! Laughing Not very inspiring.)
At first I assumed it to be a similar setup to IC4-A, where the input is to pin3 and therefore a non-inverting stage. But upon closer inspection it seems more like likely that IC1-B is using pin2 as the input and is therefore an inverting stage.
What do the sages say?


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Clack



Joined: Aug 08, 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 12:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hey, I just got one of theese ( well without a cover! ) in a bin at a car boot, was wondering if somone could help me out understanding a few things about the schematic?

What is the trasistor stages just before the output for? the feedback seems to come off the second stage. and it is attenuated by the repeat pot is that correct? is it therefore some kind of filter?

Ill let you know how this schematic fits with the actual product, although this is a tandy reverb. tandy being the now extinct UK branch of radioshack

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Uncle Krunkus
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

It is quite amazing that they managed to get an effect they could label "reverb" out of an MN3207! Shocked When I first saw this schematic I was surprised that it didn't have a 3011 in it. I remember this unit having a very twangy kind of "ring" to it, so it does make sense.
So I think the reason it does what it does is because of all the filtering. The 4 transistors are all set up as inverting LP filtering stages (I think), to get rid of the clock. So there's filtering before the regen out, then more filtering before the main out, there's also some kind of filtering further down the regen path (IC4-A).
My theory isn't that great, so I'm sure someone else will give a more accurate description of what's happening. It's definitely something I'd like to play with on the breadboard.

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anclib



Joined: Oct 12, 2012
Posts: 12
Location: UK

PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 8:02 am    Post subject: realistic reverb Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello I know this is an old thread, but I was wondering if someone can help me circuit bend one of these, I'm pretty much a complete novice when it comes to bending.

I've tried hooking into ic3(mn3102) with 10k and 100k pots in paralell with R30, with no luck, on further inspection I have noticed that my board seems to differ slightly to the schematic post on this thread, with R30 being connected to pin 7 on the chip instead of 6 of the schematic.

the two main things I want to add is a knob to extend the delay time and something to extend the feedback.

maybe someone has already done this and knows the exact points on the board to patch into.
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