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thermionicjunky
Joined: Dec 07, 2006 Posts: 90 Location: san francisco
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 7:57 am Post subject:
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emmaker wrote: | I'm building up some of my backlog and working on a +/- 15V Teezer using the Bridechamber parts kit. I'm going to use the zener substitutes to get it to work with 15 volts too.
The quantities in the kit for some of the resistors is off, some missing and some values not on the BOM are in the kit. Also out of the stock 6 zeners, 2 are correct, there are 2 6.X volt ones and 2 are missing. Got a 33pf cap too which I can't find in the BOM. |
33p is an alternate value for C6. Check this page for possible explanation of BOM discrepancies.
http://modularsynthesis.com/bridechamber/tzfm/tzfm.htm |
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Joona
Joined: Aug 22, 2015 Posts: 2 Location: Finland
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Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 4:53 am Post subject:
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I was thinking that I'll shove this into an eurorack (and I don't have the 650$ to spend on the ready made at the moment + DIY is nice). I'll get the pcb from Bridechamber, probably the part kit too. If I just turn the PCB 90 degrees so the shorter edge will be against the panel and wire all the knobs it should fit just fine. As the schematics are not available, do I need to make any other modifications concerning CVs etc?
This'll be the first module I'll be making though I do have quite a lot of experience on soldering and electronics otherwise. I'll most likely end up getting two of these. They'll be my first and only oscillators for a while (unless I get something for LFOs that can do audio range, FC System X should be able to do both roles for a while, and so should the Quadslope I have...). Panels will probably be ordered from Front Panel Express. |
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thermionicjunky
Joined: Dec 07, 2006 Posts: 90 Location: san francisco
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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 7:31 am Post subject:
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Joona wrote: | I was thinking that I'll shove this into an eurorack (and I don't have the 650$ to spend on the ready made at the moment + DIY is nice). I'll get the pcb from Bridechamber, probably the part kit too. If I just turn the PCB 90 degrees so the shorter edge will be against the panel and wire all the knobs it should fit just fine. As the schematics are not available, do I need to make any other modifications concerning CVs etc?
This'll be the first module I'll be making though I do have quite a lot of experience on soldering and electronics otherwise. I'll most likely end up getting two of these. They'll be my first and only oscillators for a while (unless I get something for LFOs that can do audio range, FC System X should be able to do both roles for a while, and so should the Quadslope I have...). Panels will probably be ordered from Front Panel Express. |
You get the schematics when you order the PCB (email Scott if he forgets). It is designed for +-12v, so no modifications are required. |
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Joona
Joined: Aug 22, 2015 Posts: 2 Location: Finland
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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:08 am Post subject:
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Great, thanks. |
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stevebryson
Joined: Nov 15, 2014 Posts: 14 Location: San Rafael, CA
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Posted: Fri Sep 11, 2015 11:40 pm Post subject:
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[edit: Fixed! Details in the next post]
Hi Folks - I just finished my first Teezer, and it has problems.
First, what's right: I get saw, tri and sine (sorta) outputs, and the init freq pot behaves as expected, with output frequencies of about 110 KHz at both ends of the init freq pot. The frequency goes through zero as the init freq knob goes through noon.
What's wrong: I get essentially no response from the coarse/fine knobs or from inputs to 1V/Oct. Using the troubleshooting info on this thread I find the following most suspicious:
With the freq init knob all the way left, as I turn the coarse knob from full left to full right I see:
- at A1a output: 0.44V to -0.094V (similar to what Ian says is OK)
- at A1b output: 0.705V to 8.32V (high end about twice what Ian said is OK, but in the right direction)
- at R23 on the side connected with pin 1 of the MAT03 chip (really an SSM 2220): 0.435V to -0.101V (very different from what Ian says is OK!)
Does that mean the SSM 2220 is bad? (of course it does - it's the only chip covered with nasty heat sink compound so this is the pcb equivalent of toast landing butter side down )
This is a 15V build from the bridechamber kit, using Dave Brown's mods. All the other voltages I checked look right.
Thanks for your help! Last edited by stevebryson on Sat Sep 12, 2015 12:54 am; edited 1 time in total |
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stevebryson
Joined: Nov 15, 2014 Posts: 14 Location: San Rafael, CA
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Posted: Sat Sep 12, 2015 12:53 am Post subject:
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Ha! After reading the discussion about crud around the a798 pads I looked at the bottom of the PCB and noticed a very small spur of metal from one of the pads almost touching the next pad. It was not shorting according to my DMM, but I scraped the channel between the pads anyway and saw that some white stuff came out. Put it all back together and now it works!!
With the init freq at the extremes, I'm seeing +-5V output frequencies of too low to measure (or I'm not patient enough but it is oscillating) to about 110 KHz. 1V/Oct input is working and not too far off
On to calibrating and adjusting!
What a great thread! |
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Starspawn
Joined: Jun 14, 2013 Posts: 85 Location: Oslo
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Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 12:42 pm Post subject:
Saw for 5pulser? |
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Ive bought a bunch of Fritz PCBs to make a little system, and also have among other utility stripboard circuits I plan to add, a 5 Pulser made after the 0-5V input schematic.
Now with my teezer, is there somewhere I can tap a 0-5V saw for 5-pulser use without disturbing the circuit, or should I just buffer and shift the saw out? |
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thermionicjunky
Joined: Dec 07, 2006 Posts: 90 Location: san francisco
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Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 9:32 am Post subject:
Re: Saw for 5pulser? |
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Starspawn wrote: | Ive bought a bunch of Fritz PCBs to make a little system, and also have among other utility stripboard circuits I plan to add, a 5 Pulser made after the 0-5V input schematic.
Now with my teezer, is there somewhere I can tap a 0-5V saw for 5-pulser use without disturbing the circuit, or should I just buffer and shift the saw out? |
Why not use the +-5v version of the 5pulser that includes the correct input buffer? This would be neater, and it would be easier to use with other VCOs. Even if you've already built the 0-5v version, it's a fairly simple conversion. |
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Starspawn
Joined: Jun 14, 2013 Posts: 85 Location: Oslo
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Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 10:17 am Post subject:
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Yeah, fair enough, last time I looked at it that looked much harder, must have learnt something |
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guatis
Joined: Jan 18, 2009 Posts: 10 Location: Philippines
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Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 3:31 pm Post subject:
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Could anyone please kindly point me to the schematics for the TZ SAW VCO? I like to design my own PCBs but would gladly buy a PCB if that grants me access to the schematics.
Regards |
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frijitz
Joined: May 04, 2007 Posts: 1734 Location: NM USA
Audio files: 54
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gimble88
Joined: May 21, 2022 Posts: 18 Location: Oregon
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Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2022 9:33 pm Post subject:
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Hello, I'm wondering if I could impose upon you for a little help with my Teezer.
First let me thank you for all the great circuits you have shared and your website.
I just assembled a Teezer using a Synthcube PCB. Almost all functions are working. All voltages are correct (6.8V instead of 7V etc) +/-5V rails a exact.
The wave stops and reverses at the middle of the init freq control range as it should.
Just fooling around I was able to get pretty good tracking so when I get serious, I'm sure it will be very good.
The linear and exponential FM inputs are working perfectly and I must say the depth of FM possible is astounding. (This is my first through zero VCO.)
The problem, I have is with the sawtooth wave and this problem flows through to the other waveforms.
With the initial Freq. control on the clockwise side of zero Hz, the sawtooth output is only 5V PP and goes from 0V to 5V. It's a little bit unstable in freq. (small jitters). With the initial freq control on the CCW side of zero the sawtooth out is still only 5V PP but now goes from 0V to -5V with bigger jitters in frequency.
The triangle out is a 10V PP sawtooth and is symetrical about 0V. I think the triangle output is a sawtooth because the real sawtooth wave never crosses zero so rectifying it doesn't make a triangle. When I look at D101 and D102 while going from the CCW side of the initial freq to the CW side it there is only rectification on the CCW side (when the saw output is only neg) and no rectification with the int freq control on the CW side. I'm a little brain tired but I think this is the reason my triangle isn't a triangle.
The sine output is also a sawtooth but I don't see any reason to pay much attention to that as long as the input to the triangle to sine converter is a sawtooth.
The saw symmetry control seems to have no affect on the saw output.
Does any of this suggest some further tests or perhaps a failure mode?
Thanks for your time,
Spence |
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