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 Forum index » Clavia Nord Modular » Nord Modular G2 Discussion
G2X and moogerfooger Low Pass Filter
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Blue Hell
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

3phase wrote:

but this rises the interesting question what impendance cv inputs actually have?


Usually I see 100 kOhm, but that might be different of course (especially for ADSR time control inputs). But you'd have to trim CV scales anyway, as the G2 almost certainly will not neatly output something like 1V/octave.

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3phase



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Question to Varice...

I am just about doing it..but..I wonder why you not just have overbridged the output Cap...
Have i understood you wright that you just connected an extra cable to the circuitboard? that would explain why you still got a drift when there is a resistor against ground after the output cap...
I just wonder how to do it ..and briding the cap seems to be pretty simple...
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

3phase wrote:
Question to Varice...

I am just about doing it..but..I wonder why you not just have overbridged the output Cap...
Have i understood you wright that you just connected an extra cable to the circuitboard?


Yes, I did connect an extra cable.

There were a couple of issues that drove my decision to make the connection that I used:

1. I would have had to make or buy a special cable if I used the existing G2 output jack to drive the MF-101 cutoff freq CV input - a standard TS plug to TRS plug. I already had a cable with a TRS plug handy...

2. I wanted to preserve the existing G2 output circuit for when I needed to use the output for standard audio.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 1:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ok...than it was the still placed capaciator causing the drift...
i think about removing it... i had a look inside and it seems that the biggest risk would be to blow the opamp when something goes wrong with an external connection..and that is pretty easy to replace if necessary...in relation to modern dsp chips the terminals of this smd op amps are huge...something you still can solder by hand
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 2:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I haven't done this to my G2 yet... mainly because it seems that my machine got a hardware problem...at least its sometimes crashing too often... sometimes it don't does it..sometimes it happens often..strange..
I don't like to touch the boards before that is sorted..

maybe its a software problem...but i am not sure about that...


however..what i will do is to that mod just on my soundcard and do the the midi to cv thing with reactor ! that should work aswell and when something goes wrong just a cheap soundcard needs to be replaced..
Its however very possible that i will do this at a later point to my G2 aswell..

having DC enabled outputs it pretty desirable on a modular synth.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2007 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

So.. ive done it now.. 2 outputs on the G2, NM1 and my hammerfall multiface...

On the nord modulars its a way of no return because removing of theese smd caps without killing traces is not really working...
however ... other caps can be used to reverse it...
But defenetly nothing for beginners to do...

i replaced the output caps with a 100 ohms resistor...
Soundwise theese outputs sound pretty different.. more lowend as expected..and more direct..as expected...
more upfront...

But the original circuit dont sounds bad aswell a bit smoother and rounder, more distance
The sound of the cap...
hard to say which one i prefer wright now... the difference is so big that it effects patching... I will see
i will report back in a while...

For the multiface i just bridget the tip output cap...
i might remove that again to achieve full symetric operation again..

without the resistor a short on the output possibliy can kill the output transistor. But in the moment i fear the tax office more than loosing an output on the multiface...

Btw:
Initially i wanted to modify the headphone out of the multiface but i havent found caps there... by chance its DC enabled by default... i will check that later
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varice



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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2007 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Wow - you pulled the caps off! No wonder you were hesitant to do this.

Let us know how the mod works for you when you use the output for CV.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Moog Music has announced a new product, the MP-201 Programmable Expression Pedal:

http://www.moogmusic.com/detail.php?main_product_id=21107

http://www.moogmusic.com/forum/topic-4949.html

If this thing could also do MIDI to CV conversion it would be perfect for my G2X/moogerfooger LPF mutant monster. Then it would complete the last puzzle piece and allow me to store and control the Moog filter resonance setting from the G2X.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

3phase wrote:
of cause something like phantom power can be problematic than to a g2...very problematic..the caps also protect against external voltages that might be aplied by idiots or system failure..or ...the well known phantom power that might brought to you on stage without having asked for it...
Many reasons that clavia was forced to do cap coupling...
Its also a question if the output of the last op amp is short protected..

however... interesting...


Would I diode in place of the cap work, correctly biased of course?
This would let the DC signal out to control a cv input, but also hopefully block
any stray (phantom) voltages from coming in.

One might have to have another circuit to make up for the diode drop though.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

3phase wrote:
i replaced the output caps with a 100 ohms resistor...
Soundwise theese outputs sound pretty different.. more lowend as expected..and more direct..as expected...
more upfront...

But the original circuit dont sounds bad aswell a bit smoother and rounder, more distance
The sound of the cap...
hard to say which one i prefer wright now... the difference is so big that it effects patching... I will see
i will report back in a while...

Hi 3phase, I only just picked up this message of yours. So do I get this right, you removed the caps of two of the outputs of the G2, and you get a more direct, raw, fatter sound? This sounds like a no-brainer to me...

Any new thoughts on this? Have you learned which of the two sounds you prefer most?
I would really like to hear the difference. Could you give us a sound example?

Cheers,
Robert

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

cappy2112 wrote:
3phase wrote:
of cause something like phantom power can be problematic than to a g2...very problematic..the caps also protect against external voltages that might be aplied by idiots or system failure..or ...the well known phantom power that might brought to you on stage without having asked for it...
Many reasons that clavia was forced to do cap coupling...
Its also a question if the output of the last op amp is short protected..

however... interesting...


Would a diode in place of the cap work, correctly biased of course?
This would let the DC signal out to control a cv input, but also hopefully block
any stray (phantom) voltages from coming in.

One might have to have another circuit to make up for the diode drop though.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hmmm... for some reason, I'm not getting an email notification when a reply is posted to this topic...

Blue Hell wrote:
3phase wrote:
I am talking about phantom power...
how could a diode not change the sound?


a) makes sense !

b) by assuring it gets active only when it's protection function must kick in.

May I suggest the following :

Code:


  device supply voltage >---+
                            |
                          -----
                           / \   D1
                          -----     
                            |      R1
  device output >-----------+---/\/\/\/\-----> protected output
                            |
                          -----
                           / \   D2
                          -----
                            |
  device ground >-----------+----------------> external ground connection
 


I'll assume a maximum external voltage of 50 V, being the amount of phantom voltage you'd want to protect against (it will have some margin). And I'll assume a device supply voltage of 5 V.

D1 and D2 are general purpose silicon diodes.

The diodes are said to conduct when a forward voltage is applied greater than about 0.6 .. 0.7 Volt over them. In that case a large current can flow through them. In the given configuration D1 would conduct for voltages greater than the supply voltage + 0.6 V. D2 would conduct for voltages smaller than - 0.6 V. This is the protective function.

Diodes conduct a little bit as well for reverse voltages, this current however is so small (typically less than 1 u(micro)A that it will not perceptebly influence the sound.

R1 is chosen such that for an external voltage of 50 Volts about 10 mA will flow intgo the power supply of the device. The assumption implicitly made here is that the device output will withstand short circuits against both ground and positive supply voltage - a reasonable assumption for modern outputs (IMHO). And it is assumed that 10 mA current injection into the power supply will not harm the device, areasonable assumption for a G2 I think.

This results in R1 being 50 - 5 V / 10 mA = 5 kOhm.

A typical bad case input impedance of the device connected to the protected output might be 50 kOhm. This would result in a signal loss of about 10% - or -0.1 dB (2 dB difference is about the per


This simple diode protection scheme that Blue Hell suggested earlier in this thread is the only one that I know of that could be used. The method he suggested could only be used for positive CV outputs. Keep in mind that the G2 output is bipolar. In my case, the Moogerfooger filter cutoff CV input accepts both positive and negative CV signals. For bipolar output protection, the anode of D2 should be connected to the negative supply voltage of the device instead of the device ground. An alternative protection method might be to connect a bipolar tranzorb between the output and the device ground. But, I'm not sure if a tranzorb might have an undesirable affect on the signal.

BTW, I use my G2X/Moogerfooger Filter monster very often. The combination sounds awesome!

3phase - are you out there? Let us know how your G2 CV mods are working for you!

Has anyone else modified their G2 or G1 for CV output to external gear?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi,
It works very well... for the price of the unconvinience that the mainb volume have to be up all the time...

the keyboardscaling works well even without heavy patching...
i attach a bit bigger version with tuning per key...but its good enough without the extra sequncer modules ...

the range is a bit limitet..but over 3 octaves is good enough for the most things


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello!

On this picture i marked the point Varice was talking about.
Any more experience on this, from you guys already using it?
If i understand right, this point does deliver 8 volts centered around zero?
I'll have to measure...

i use Output 3 as well since a long time to chain some external modules,
diy filters and such, moved by the G2 thru a paia midiCV. It doesn't deliver totally snappy envelopes, but it's still musically useable. Actually i like it a lot.

My problem was, that i needed to boost the output of the G2 externally by a few volts to get nice filter responses,
otherwise its very rude on high resonance settings, as obviously it doesn't have any juice.
i believe the G2 Outputs are around maximum 1 volts or less. This mod would solve that, more eleganty and without a loss of quality.

Please share some experience on this will you?
thanks!

róbert


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yes, the end of C101 connected to pin 1 is the point where I made the connection to get the signal from the G2 Output 4. This signal will range about 8 volts peak to peak, from about -4 to +4 volts. To get this range, you have to amplify a typical G2 bipolar control signal (-64 to +64 units) with a gain of 8X. I normally use an amplifier module set to a gain of 4X connected to an output module with the pad set to +6dB.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hey róbert,

I would very much like to know more details about the external modules that you plan to control with a modified G2 output.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 4:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

varice wrote:
Hey róbert,

I would very much like to know more details about the external modules that you plan to control with a modified G2 output.


Hey Varice!

Thanks for you're reply! i still too have some questions. Laughing
But first, on using the beefy output with external modules...
Well, i've tried lots and lots of thing, mainly because when i bought the engine about 4 years ago, i was such an
inexperienced patcher (spent two years with a micromodular, but too quickly grown out of it's one DSP,
and had to part with it because of the engine, still miss her little red body with that harsh spectral osc...)
that i couldn't get that defined bass i wanted, and i knew some filters have it, not that i've heard many at that point, but...
So a loopback chain (how do we call that? it comes out and goes back to the G2...) worked well with a friends waldorf 4-pole,
that filter box has everything one needs, vca, lfo, ringmod, plus midi control over everything, so a nice little editor can be knocked together inside the G2 in no time, but the problem was already there with self oscillation, it just kicks in as a sine-ish wave with low signals, and i adore sharp self oscillations of analog gear, but it was not ok to have it a LOT louder than the signal itself, not very musical.

Then soon i refreshed my electronic knowledge, kicked together a few ringmods with lfo's, than i played at in berlin in and got back with a Bananalogue Serge VCS, and it dawned on me that i can do this, i can do modules like this, i can experiment with things and stick them behind panels, put them into boxes, it's not such a hard thing to do, not at all, it's rather very relaxing to me, messing with electronics. Same as patching a G2. Smile

This picture is of the box i'm taking to gig's nowdays, it has a pair of Lfo's,
a Vca with a 3 input mixer, a pair of sallen-key filters that evolved from the René Schmitz adaptation of the MS20 filters, the VCS, a voltage controllable glide, some multiples and random voltages and some secret electonics you have to open the lid up to access. I built 3 times as much modules so i keep changing them, really depends on what i want to do, it's never finnished, but this box now is giggable, it's not heavy at all, as wide a rack standard, and the engine usually resides on top of it, sort of driving it. Well what are engines for? Very Happy

What i'm working on now, is a desk-top sort of unit that will incorporate the engine, a midi-cv, a pair of 4x4 matrix mixers for the G2's inputs and outputs, and at least 4 vca's if not 8 to move things, and some whatever, probably an oscillator moved by the G2 thru midi, and a pair of filters.
I might not even need an oscillator if the 8volt outputs work out, ill just use Tim's draw-osc than. I'm in love with that. Smile And Bank Select, yes.
Im still tring to build smaller than i can build, just crossing over to use SMT. As it should not be bigger than let's say a NM1 rack, im a working "man", i need backpack it often. Smile Made lots of plan's and drawings, what's really hard for me is to decide what makes sense to do inside the G2 and what's better outside, but shurely theres a few analog circuit's i love to use and don't have a way to emulate the sound of those, tho it's odd that i'm a lot closer to the sound i'm looking for now inside the Nord aswell. But i a NO laptop on stage.

Wow, did i type that much? Rolling Eyes
Another coffe please...

róbert


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I tried the mooger fooger yesterday and noticed a different sound than the g2, even when the mooger fooger is bypassed, unfortunately (less high frequencies).
But I was impressed by the G2 classic filter that's not ridiculous at all. Self modulation sounds really better on the mooger fooger (imho), especially in high frequencies.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hey róbert,

Actually, I don't think that the output at pin 1 of the opamp is that much higher than the signal at the output jack. The only real difference is the DC blocking on the output. You need to check it with an oscilloscope or meter. Another option is to use the headphone output jack, it is a much hotter output! Of course, not as easy to isolate as a single output. Make sure that you amplify your audio signals in the G2 patch. You can amplify a typical +-64 unit oscillator signal by about 8X before it begins to clip on the output.

Hey, I like all the DIY modules! Great work on that stuff. An excellent way to get your own unique sound (and "look"). Good luck with the SMT parts. Too small for me!

I checked out some of your music (low fast). Fantastic synth sounds. I will have to give a listen to some more.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

xav wrote:
I tried the mooger fooger yesterday and noticed a different sound than the g2, even when the mooger fooger is bypassed, unfortunately (less high frequencies).
But I was impressed by the G2 classic filter that's not ridiculous at all. Self modulation sounds really better on the mooger fooger (imho), especially in high frequencies.


Yes, the moogerfooger does not have a true bypass, the audio still goes through the drive circuit. Something to be aware of if you want use it in the conventional way. But, by the way that I use it in an external loop, the filter is only in the loop when I want to use it.

I had not noticed any loss of high frequencies when bypassed (normally I have the filter on all the time), something I will check.

There are interesting differences between the Moog and G2 Classic filters, especially at or near self oscillation resonance settings. But at lower settings, since I have had the moogerfooger for a while as a reference, I have learned how to patch the classic to sound closer to the Moog. Similar to the Moog, the classic will get a little more distorted as you drive it harder. And it seems to help to add a little saturation distortion before the classic input if you trying to get that nice and creamy Moog filter overdrive sound. Though, with a higher overdrive, the moogerfooger sound wins hands down!

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi Varice!

varice wrote:
Hey róbert,

Actually, I don't think that the output at pin 1 of the opamp is that much higher than the signal at the output jack. The only real difference is the DC blocking on the output. You need to check it with an oscilloscope or meter.


Fair enough, getting DC is way cool, i can drive the signal outside if needed...
Meter. Very odd, but i still couldn't afford a real Scope, only the virtual pc scope thru a mixer. Sometimes i feel im in the lurking in the dark, but hey if Stevie Wonder could use an Arp2600... Smile

varice wrote:


Another option is to use the headphone output jack, it is a much hotter output!


i know... quite useless the way it is. Made a little box to split it in two, with passive attenuators.

varice wrote:

Make sure that you amplify your audio signals in the G2 patch. You can amplify a typical +-64 unit oscillator signal by about 8X before it begins to clip on the output.



Thanks for this wisdom! great...

varice wrote:


Hey, I like all the DIY modules! Great work on that stuff. An excellent way to get your own unique sound (and "look"). Good luck with the SMT parts. Too small for me!



Thanks! i'm still at an early stage, things hardly boxed.
SMT is too small for me too, but i need so many things in such a small place, that it's the only option. If i come up with something very good, i can still send it to a factory with industrial soldering robots. Or diy one of those. Iron-man syndrome. Smile

varice wrote:


I checked out some of your music (low fast). Fantastic synth sounds. I will have to give a listen to some more.


Thanks for the compliments!
Low fast is the G2 on drums and driving a formant-moog clone i made 8 years ago (still my favourite filter), tho it's really coming apart at the seams now. Odd that i keep tapeing thing rather than recording with the pc. Smile
Somehow i like te results more.
Let me know if you have the patience to listen to some more, i'll send you some links. (Low fast is here, if somebody might like to listen...)

One thing i wanted to tell you (and others who been messing with this) is that how great fun a passive Ge-diode ringmod is with a G2!
I've been getting really harsh things out of this one, totally unlike the ringmod inside the G2, it's sort of ideal for the Nord as the coils don't like DC at all. You need two out's for carrier and modulator, and one back. It's doesn't need power. If you mess enough with it it sort of talks after a while.. ajajajaja sort of talk, i was always very fond of that from a synth. Smile
http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgsrr.html
it's basically this, tho theres another variant in a ham-radio book somewhere, i have to find in the flat...

róbert
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 2:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hey róbert,

I'm sorry that I did not reply sooner, but with the holidays and other distractions....

drapdap wrote:
Hi Varice!

varice wrote:
Hey róbert,

Actually, I don't think that the output at pin 1 of the opamp is that much higher than the signal at the output jack. The only real difference is the DC blocking on the output. You need to check it with an oscilloscope or meter.


Fair enough, getting DC is way cool, i can drive the signal outside if needed...
Meter. Very odd, but i still couldn't afford a real Scope, only the virtual pc scope thru a mixer. Sometimes i feel im in the lurking in the dark, but hey if Stevie Wonder could use an Arp2600... Smile


LOL, I'm lucky to have a real o'scope, it sure is really handy for troubleshooting and to see what is really happening with my experimental and hacked circuit designs!

drapdap wrote:
varice wrote:


Another option is to use the headphone output jack, it is a much hotter output!


i know... quite useless the way it is. Made a little box to split it in two, with passive attenuators.


Silly of me, but of course, you are smart enough to know this already! Great idea to make a breakout box for the headphone output...

drapdap wrote:
Odd that i keep tapeing thing rather than recording with the pc. Smile Somehow i like te results more.


Yeah, I know what you mean. I have been VERY happy recording and mixing with my old analog Tascam four track cassette machine. I use my PC soundcard for quick and dirty stereo recording, but I still do not use any computer DAW software for recording and mixing. When I finally got serious about trying digital recording, I was VERY unlucky by purchasing Logic just before Apple bought exclusive rights and dropped support for the PC. Evil or Very Mad

drapdap wrote:
One thing i wanted to tell you (and others who been messing with this) is that how great fun a passive Ge-diode ringmod is with a G2!
I've been getting really harsh things out of this one, totally unlike the ringmod inside the G2, it's sort of ideal for the Nord as the coils don't like DC at all. You need two out's for carrier and modulator, and one back. It's doesn't need power. If you mess enough with it it sort of talks after a while.. ajajajaja sort of talk, i was always very fond of that from a synth. Smile
http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgsrr.html
it's basically this, tho theres another variant in a ham-radio book somewhere, i have to find in the flat...


Wow, I would have assumed that some external drive circuits would be necessary for this passive ring modulation circuit... thanks for the suggestion, another experiment to try!

Your external ring modulation suggestion has inspired me to try other G2 internal ring modulation experiments... I get very interesting results by distorting one or both of the carrier and/or the modulator signal, and/or distorting the output of the ring modulator with shaper modules! Using the Shape Oscillators as generators of unusual waveshape input signals is also very rewarding.

But, if you really want gut wrenching noise from the G2, may I suggest that you check this out:

http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-13384.html

Lots and lots of ring mod/cross mod/aliasing digital type of noise here. WARNING: Mind those speaker woofers and tweeters (and your ears)! I have other XOR variants that I need to post....

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Jee-Bee



Joined: Dec 07, 2008
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

When i read this topic and i hear the samples i think i wait with the expansion board and buy a moogerfrooger first.
the only thing i don't understand the electotechnical stuff. and i can build in the expansion board as well
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drapdap



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello Varice!

No worries, i'm glad you found time to answer.
i still didn't do the mod, at least not finalised, however i can confirm the beefy output. Smile

But, the question cropped up, -i solved it, but still i'm asking- is where did you connect the ground? On the output jack, or before that? Not that it should matter much, just asking, maybe you had something bright again. Smile

varice wrote:


LOL, I'm lucky to have a real o'scope, it sure is really handy for troubleshooting and to see what is really happening with my experimental and hacked circuit designs!



yeah, ill get one soon... i keep spending money on stupid things like parts, and chips, now i just aquired a tascam dat machine, to be able to record on the fly without a pc... next one is a scope!

I'd be interested in those circuit designs of your's too. i'm really glad you started this thread. Smile

varice wrote:


When I finally got serious about trying digital recording, I was VERY unlucky by purchasing Logic just before Apple bought exclusive rights and dropped support for the PC. Evil or Very Mad



Ouch, that must hurt. and now nord is going to ditch the G2.
Not really good.

varice wrote:


Wow, I would have assumed that some external drive circuits would be necessary for this passive ring modulation circuit... thanks for the suggestion, another experiment to try!



Well, you "usually" put a cap there to remove dc, but Clavia already did that for me, and an attenuator pot doesn't hurt either, but i omitted that as well when i put it together, as i like to control that from the G2. Also my transformers were stripped from thrown out radios i keep taking home, i although i know i shouldn't... but i just see them sometimes by the roadside, and in the garbage so sad, and i know they are eager to have a new life.
Some are a goldmine. The germaniums as well are from those. I didn't really match them, but tried a few untill it sounded good enough.
Cost me a bit of time, nothing else.

I'll look for samples, i recorded some, but i need to cut them...

varice wrote:


Your external ring modulation suggestion has inspired me to try other G2 internal ring modulation experiments... I get very interesting results by distorting one or both of the carrier and/or the modulator signal, and/or distorting the output of the ring modulator with shaper modules! Using the Shape Oscillators as generators of unusual waveshape input signals is also very rewarding.



i'll try that, good tip! i tried compressing the signals for less chaotic behaviour, but not yet shaping them with overdrive. it makes a lot of sense now you mention it, to have full control over the overtones.

varice wrote:


But, if you really want gut wrenching noise from the G2, may I suggest that you check this out:

http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-13384.html

Lots and lots of ring mod/cross mod/aliasing digital type of noise here. WARNING: Mind those speaker woofers and tweeters (and your ears)! I have other XOR variants that I need to post....


[/quote]

i'll do that right now, thanks!

róbert
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varice



Joined: Dec 29, 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello róbert,

drapdap wrote:
i still didn't do the mod, at least not finalised, however i can confirm the beefy output.


Beefy output signals are usually a good thing!!!

drapdap wrote:
But, the question cropped up... is where did you connect the ground?... not that it should matter much, just asking, maybe you had something bright again.


Oh no - absolutely nothing bright on my part at all. I just found an easy connection point for the ground at the S1 point on the main board (the switch S1 is not installed on the main board of my G2X, but apparently it is on your Engine based on the picture you posted). As you probably already know, since my modified output is only used to drive the high impedence input of my MF-101, the ground point is not very critical in this particular case. Also, the audio signal input/output cable connections between the G2X and MF-101 provide a common ground anyway. The ground point would be critical if you want to drive a low impedence input. In that case though, my recommendation would be to use an external buffer circuit and to make very careful power supply and ground connections.

drapdap wrote:
I'd be interested in those circuit designs of your's too. i'm really glad you started this thread.


I did have a feeling that my Frankenstein G2X/moogerfooger mutant monster might be of some interest... especially about getting a DC CV output from the G2 to drive external analog gear...

About my other circuit "designs" - nothing that I would really consider special. They would be off topic here in this thread (DIY analog step sequencer, guitar distortion circuits, mods and hacks of existing stuff) - maybe I might post some of my stories of old experiments over in the DIY forum.

drapdap wrote:
...Also my transformers were stripped from thrown out radios i keep taking home, i although i know i shouldn't... but i just see them sometimes by the roadside, and in the garbage so sad, and i know they are eager to have a new life.


I know what you mean!!! I have also collected old discarded TVs, radios, test instruments, etc. and provided the parts with a new life!

Harvesting the ghosts of the past for a new life can be very rewarding, even if it is only you that can perceive them!

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