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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Klee sequencer
Electro-Music Klee Sequencer Build and Applications Thread
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synthnl



Joined: Oct 19, 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks guys Smile
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frank discourse



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PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 6:28 pm    Post subject: klee board poll
Subject description: vote
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Just wishing to vote for the klee board,
I have been looking at some of the you tube on this and it seems very impressive, combining the best of traditional step sequencing with self patterning ability of some of the other cool hardware and software found on electro music.
I have been looking for a good hardware project so my friend who is an amazing virtual studio engineer and musician can get his hands dirty with some homebuilt gear.

When he has finished moving house we will prob order one as i could drive my roland system standalone with it.

I think it is good to make a small profit from this for the electro music running costs as this still ends up being a very reasonable price, even better if the designer(s) get a small percentage also to cover the donation of their time in development.

If someone has the time and motivation there is probably a market for fully constructed boxes also for those who prefer plug and play rather than a kit,-if a midi converter was added here (sorry to analog purists) then the product would cover all bases- im no super tech so i dont know if this is easy or practical for a decent price.

The klee is important because it has a general audience appeal compared to some of the other cool circuits within a wider range of genres. imho frankie d. Smile
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sduck



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PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Pcb sets are available now - click on that link called Store above, and then find the diy section.
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KEYKEYEYEKIT



Joined: Sep 08, 2009
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 6:46 am    Post subject: Klee Klee Klee!!! Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

So, all done wiring the Klee! Thanks everybody for this amazing sequencer. I have been playing with it using the step button and it really is amazing. If only I could load a pattern or have it run by itself... Embarassed I seem to be having the same trouble as mentioned earlier by Photon. I have the unit on and all 16 led's light in sequence and then they disappear in sequence, then light up, then... This is while I manually step with the step button. I'm getting cv out and gates and triggers as well. I have been trying to clock it with an lfo and another sequencer, but it just won't respond, though once I plug anything into the clock jack the clock led turns on. If I cycle the unit off and then on I get sometimes the aforementioned led cycle and other times a random display, but the load button in either case does not change this. I've tested the button and continuity is made when pressed. I'm wondering if anything more was found out in Photon's case. If anyone could help me figure this out it would be much obliged. Thanks. Embarassed
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KEYKEYEYEKIT



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Okay. Pin 5 of U2 on the digital board is showing about 12.40 v and when I press load it goes down to about 12.33. Pin 6 goes from 0.00 to 0.07 when the button is pressed. Any ideas?
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EdisonRex
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 9:15 am    Post subject: Re: Klee Klee Klee!!! Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

KEYKEYEYEKIT wrote:
So, all done wiring the Klee! Thanks everybody for this amazing sequencer. I have been playing with it using the step button and it really is amazing. If only I could load a pattern or have it run by itself... Embarassed I seem to be having the same trouble as mentioned earlier by Photon. I have the unit on and all 16 led's light in sequence and then they disappear in sequence, then light up, then... This is while I manually step with the step button. I'm getting cv out and gates and triggers as well. I have been trying to clock it with an lfo and another sequencer, but it just won't respond, though once I plug anything into the clock jack the clock led turns on. If I cycle the unit off and then on I get sometimes the aforementioned led cycle and other times a random display, but the load button in either case does not change this. I've tested the button and continuity is made when pressed. I'm wondering if anything more was found out in Photon's case. If anyone could help me figure this out it would be much obliged. Thanks. Embarassed


Congratulations on making it this far. Can you tell me the make and type of 4034s you have? If you change to 2x8 mode does it do anything different?

Also if you put a single step pattern in (first pattern switch on) and load and enable clock, does it simply run through a single 16 pattern cycle and stop?

Relevant pages of the schematic are 2 and 3. On page 2, U3 pin 4 is your clock's output, you should see a clock pulse with your scope. There isn't a lot of logic involved after that point, hence asking about the 4034s, if you've read a bit you'll know there was a bad batch of them which are responsible for a fairly high amount of problems.

Also check U9, pins 4 and 14. They should alternate in 1x16 mode.

Does invert B do anything to influence the outcome? it should turn each light in 9-16 on progressively if you have entered a single stage pattern in stage 1.

Also, if you single step does it work ok?

ok I just read your other post too, check that load switch. It should have pulled that down to logic low.

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KEYKEYEYEKIT



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks, I'm really excited to have this wired. Was hoping to play it at a show this weekend, but i ear perhaps i jumped the gun on that bit of ambition.

The make and model of 4034's is TI 8CA1638 CD4034BE.
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EdisonRex
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

KEYKEYEYEKIT wrote:
Thanks, I'm really excited to have this wired. Was hoping to play it at a show this weekend, but i ear perhaps i jumped the gun on that bit of ambition.

The make and model of 4034's is TI 8CA1638 CD4034BE.


TIs are fine. It sounds like it attempts to load. The alternating stuff sounds like you have invert B on, which might be indicative of a further problem, or you just have some switches backwards.

Can you check U2 again, all ins and outs, and see if it's actually working. Have you got a scope instead of a DMM, you'll want to look for pulses.

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KEYKEYEYEKIT



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Also, the step button works without trouble. And would it be relevant to report that when I plug in to the ext clock jack it turns on the clock led and gate led's and when i remove the plug from the jack it stays on until I cycle power.
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KEYKEYEYEKIT



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I'll head to my buddy's place, where a scope can be had. Thanks for the help!
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EdisonRex
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

KEYKEYEYEKIT wrote:
Also, the step button works without trouble. And would it be relevant to report that when I plug in to the ext clock jack it turns on the clock led and gate led's and when i remove the plug from the jack it stays on until I cycle power.


The step button does not use U2 in its circuit, which is why I suspect U2, which is common to the other malfunctioning circuits you are mentioning.

Another test is to try to manual step your way through a Bus 1 Load. If that works, I would have another look at U2.

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KEYKEYEYEKIT



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I have a signal getting to U5(4013), but nothing coming out of any of the other pins there. Could this be the problem?
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KEYKEYEYEKIT



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

To back up a bit, bus 1 load did not work when stepped. I checked the path of the load button and the pulse continued into the 4013, but then did not exit from any of the other pins. All other IC's seemed to work fine until that point. I just want to see a proper load, then I will move on to the clock issue.
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EdisonRex
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 12:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

KEYKEYEYEKIT wrote:
To back up a bit, bus 1 load did not work when stepped. I checked the path of the load button and the pulse continued into the 4013, but then did not exit from any of the other pins. All other IC's seemed to work fine until that point. I just want to see a proper load, then I will move on to the clock issue.


So you saw a pulse at U3 pin 10? Even if you press manual load switch? hm.

Well, check your traces on the board. It's a complicated build and one blob of solder can make trouble. It is entirely possible that you have one or more bad chips, which will complicate debugging. However, if you see nothing coming out of U5 pin 1 when pulses are present on pin 3, it implies either the 4013 is fried or something else is holding it up or down. U2, however, is involved in that part of the circuit now I look too, so that might still be the problem... still looks to me like everything you're having a problem with has something to do with U2.

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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
It's a complicated build and one blob of solder can make trouble.


Yes, the problem could be along those lines. IIRC, on Photon's Klee, a couple of the feed-through's had become disconnected from the traces.

A good, tedious session of point to point resistance checks might help.

E-Rex is quite likely right also with the reason why the LEDs alternate between on and off.

Another problem would be that the clock LED should go off if no signal is applied. But, one thing at a time.

If this is leading nowhere fast, you can send the Klee to me and I'll get it working - no one should go through the hassle of building one and then have it go nowhere. Just return postage is all I would require (just to keep the wife off of my back regarding expenses). It would be a pleasure for me.

Take care,
Scott

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KEYKEYEYEKIT



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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

That is an UNBELIEVABLY nice offer. Shocked I want to make sure I exhaust every possible thing I can do on this end first though. Especially after such a kind offer as that.

Also, I swear the plan is to clean up my wiring after I get it running... Embarassed

Traded out all the chips in question, and I am still having the same issues.

Then...
I fed a clock signal into the clock jack, and when I flipped the clock in switch, it stopped my sequencer. When I switched it off, my sequencer went back about its normal LED chase sequence life. Now, I never saw anything instructing me to do so in the Klee build, but I thought I should ground the incoming clock switch to digital ground. Is this not something that should be done? Is this one of my very likely to be many problems in the build?

I have obviously gnarled this thing up in all sorts of foolishness. I'll do the point to point tests, though I leave for tour in 2 days, so it will probably have to wait for a bit.

Thanks to the both of you for your help! One day this thing is going to SING!


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EdisonRex
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 5:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

That wiring job doesn't look any worse than most of the ones we've seen.

Scott is awesome, in case you never noticed.

Good luck. If you get a chance please check your wiring. The wiring instructions are quite explicit so if there's a question, post it here.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Oh, heck, it's nothing. It wouldn't be the first time I've poked around another Klee, and it always gives me a chance to play with two at one time... Very Happy .

I've got the makings for a second one, just haven't done it yet.

Oh yeah - I'll be out of town this week, but I'll be back Friday.

Cheerios,
Scott

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Also forgot to mention - the clock input switch is just a simple interrupter switch; I've never attached it to anything. If it's working for you to ground it, that's cool (and interesting). Just don't wire it to shunt your clock signal to ground when it's flipped off. That likely wouldn't be too healthy. Laughing
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Pfurmel



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 3:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Does anyone have any partnumbers for the hardware used on the Bridechamber front panel? I want to see if I can get the components a little closer to home to save postage and import tax.

Any help would be much appreciated.
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sync24



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Pfurmel wrote:
Does anyone have any partnumbers for the hardware used on the Bridechamber front panel? I want to see if I can get the components a little closer to home to save postage and import tax.

Any help would be much appreciated.


hi,
i'd be interested in this too!
it's been a while since i've worked on this project and really need to get the front panel built.
anyone got any part numbers then?

cheers!

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sync24



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

hello and happy new year!

i've been asking over on muffs about this too and have a little bit of a list now.

there's also a Bridechamber kit, which i am waiting to hear back about.

anyway, if anyone can say whether or not parts below would be suitable i'd be most grateful!

• 3 x 100k linear panel mount pot: mouser 531-PC16SC-100K

• 16 x pattern switch SPST on-off: mouser 1055-TA2120-EVX OR rapid switch

• 16 x Gate bus switch SPDT on-off-on: mouser 1055-TA2135-EVX

• 8 x switch SPST on-off: mouser 1055-TA2120-EVX OR rapid switch

• 2 x switch SPDT on-on: rapid switch

• 18 x 1/4 inch jack sockets: mouser 502-112AX OR mouser 568-NYS229

that leaves:
16 x 50k panel mount pots,
3 x 1m linear panel mount pots,
2 x SPST (on)-off pushbutton switches (do the brackets around the on mean momentarily?),
1 x SP8T Rotary dial (i have a part number from APEM: PLRT842, i don't remember where it came from though...),
22 red LEDs (i have a link for some holders, but they look abit OTT:LED holders)

thanks in advance!

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I was able to source all of the panel hardware for my Klee from Rapid. Except the aluminium panel itself, which I got at Studiospares.

Scott says in the documentation, get the best switches you can find, especially the load and step switches; you use them more than anything. The pattern toggles too, and the gate bus switches. Scott is, as usual, very right about it too. After you finish the panel, you will not want to go back to replace a crappy working load switch in a year's time.

However I found suitable items at Rapid. All my pots are Alpha, but I didn't bother with sliders (I could argue that I can tune a rotary better, but I think it's really a matter of taste). I went for larger knobs for the same reason.

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sync24



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

hey EdisonRex, thanks for the reply Smile

in light of your response, i have expanded and updated my search a bit so here it is below:

• 3 x 100k linear panel mount pot: mouser 531-PC16SC-100K OR mouser RV120F-10-15F-B100K

• 16 x 50k panel mount pots: mouser RV120F-10-15F-B50K

• 3 x 1m linear panel mount pots: mouser RV120F-10-15F-B1M

• 16 x pattern switch SPST on-off: mouser 1055-TA2120-EVX OR rapid switch

• 16 x Gate bus switch SPDT on-off-on: mouser 1055-TA2135-EVX

• 8 x switch SPST on-off: mouser 1055-TA2120-EVX OR rapid switch

• 2 x switch SPDT on-on: rapid switch

• 18 x 1/4 inch jack sockets: mouser 502-112AX OR mouser 568-NYS229 OR mouser 568-NYS229L

• for 22 red LEDs - holders: Lens mounts @ Rapid OR OTT holders : LED holders

• 1 x SP8T Rotary dial: mouser 105-SR2611F-18-18NS

• 2 x SPST (on)-off pushbutton switches (do the brackets around the on mean momentarily?): Digikey EG1938-ND

I've had a hunt through various posts over on muffs (link and linky) and it looks like 'modularplanner' has asked a few similar Qs there already. So i'm consolidating the findings in this post which is duplicated over at muffs too.

I'm also looking at how to power the Klee once built, and, looking at this post, think i should buy a MOTM 990 or an Oakley one mentioned here - i reckon i'll be building something remotely modular in the future, so i guess it'd be the right way to go.

the above stuff is looking fine, but if any one has any comments or alternative suggestion, please reply. i'll be getting this lot OR a set of bits from Bridechamber if they reply soon.

thanks in advance Wink

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Make sure you get switches from the same brand for all toggle switches. Mixing those up will give a strange looking Klee, especially if the metal colours are different, or the length of the lever differs.
Remember you can use SPDT on-on for SPST on-off, just don't solder anything to one of the two outer lugs. Other good thing of using this: most of the time there are deals when you take 25 of one type. With 16 pattern switches, and the 8 SPDTs, you're already on 24.

Pot style is a matter of taste. I used sliders for mine, but I have seen many nice Klee panels with rotaries too.
Again, it helps when all pots are of the same brand, so the feel when turning is the same. Smile

EDIT: another trick that I can highly recommend is buying some pre wired connectors. Saves a lot of time when building a Klee, and only costs a few cents more Smile
I got mine at MusikDing (http://www.musikding.de/forums.html/cat/c158_PCB-connectors.html), but I think they are available in other shops too.

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