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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » MusicFromOuterSpace.com designs by Ray Wilson
Lab rat building ultimate
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olledahlberg



Joined: Nov 28, 2012
Posts: 23
Location: sweden

PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 1:46 pm    Post subject: Lab rat building ultimate Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I just ordered pcb and face plates for an Ultimate, which probably will be a huge task for me to build since im a total beginner in electronics (Im a Swedish molecular biologist using fruit flies in my reasearch) and I have been looking at som of the MFOS builds which are truly amazing. The fact that Im totally new have never stopped me before, so I think it will work out.
My question: Is it possible to use some kind of cable lugs (dont know the english word) instead of directly solder the cables to the board. E.g solder a short cable with a female connector to the board and one cable with a male connector from the pots to more easily be able to remove the board if I need to change things/re-solder components etc?
Olle
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elmegil



Joined: Mar 20, 2012
Posts: 1534
Location: Chicago
Audio files: 14

PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

MTA connectors are commonly used for this. The male header goes on the PCB, and the female goes to your pots and things. When there are lots adjacent (like the ones I see on the ultimate PCB) some folks like to use ribbon cables as well.

MTA connectors are named for their spacing. MTA-100 are mostly used for this kind of thing, while MTA-156 is used for power (in some designs, doesn't look like Ray is using that).

The female connectors I usually use require a special t-shaped tool to push the wires into the female sockets; this can be trouble prone and I always check them with a meter to be sure I have good continuity, and I have taken to "potting" them with epoxy glue (two part mix glue) to hold them securely in place. I'm told there are solder or crimp MTA-100 female connectors, but I'm not so great at searching on Mouser and other sites, so I have only found that kind for MTA-156 sockets.
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sompost



Joined: Aug 17, 2010
Posts: 24
Location: Switzerland

PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 2:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I'm not quite sure whether the "holes" on the board fit any of the standard spacings for PCP connectors, but you may be able to solder single header pins into the holes and then use single-pin connectors on the wires.

I just started panel-wiring a Minisynth Mk II, and I'm likely going to do it the usual way (by soldering).

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Built: MFOS SLMS plus, SL Ultimate & Expander, 10 step seq; PAiA FatMan
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ashleym



Joined: Aug 20, 2009
Posts: 181
Location: uk

PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 7:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Good luck with the build. If you do things right it WILL work first time!!!

The circuits have wiring points all over and they dont line up for multipole connectors. I soldered mine OK. However for my next build I am using single pole connectors as described on earlier replies. You can get preterminated cables from Ebay.

Have a look for
40PCS Dupont Wire Color Connector Cable Line 1 Pin New

These will fit pots etc if they have PCB mount pins making the process relatively solder free.

And something like this for the PCB male ends
http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/Single-Row-PCB-Header-Plug-75736

If you arent happy you can cut the ends off and solder. If anything isnt clear please ask again

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elmegil



Joined: Mar 20, 2012
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I looked at the ultimate pcb on Ray's site, and unlike several of his others, it does bring the connections to the edges. Are y'all saying that they still aren't .1 spacing?
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iopop3



Joined: May 28, 2010
Posts: 95
Location: Malmö, Sweden

PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Nope, they are not 0.1". Tried that and failed miserabley.. Not sure what kind of pitch Ray uses, its atleast not a standard one.
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olledahlberg



Joined: Nov 28, 2012
Posts: 23
Location: sweden

PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

one idea would be to connect a cable from the board with a cable attached to the pots with several of these babies using a screwdriver:
http://www.kjell.com/images/Product_13039983623929107/full/1/kopplingslist-2-5-mm2

http://bmwklubben.se/gallery/images/480/1246483799orwbLLgJ3TwGEiVQgc0juM.jpg
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ashleym



Joined: Aug 20, 2009
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 2:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

You could but you are making work for yourself. You have made the connection at the board end, you have made the connection at the panel end and so it seems a shame to effectively cut in the middle to put a terminal block between them. Also these blocks dont come in the low current and voltage sizes you need for building the Ultimate so you are going to end up with quite a lot of bulk and awkward cable handling- ie small cable in a big terminal block wont be reliable. This is why you get the small connectors that have been recommended earlier.
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Dave Kendall



Joined: May 26, 2007
Posts: 415
Location: England
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi, and welcome to the awesomely fun timesink that is synth DIY Wink

Consider using PCB pins for places where you can't use MTA connectors or the like. You can get them in packs of 100+ or so (don't buy them in small amounts - it's a ripoff) It's about as easy to solder to a pin as to a PCB pad, an if a wire breaks off, re-working is easier and puts less stess on the PCB pad.

A big advantage of pins comes if you use heatshrink over the soldered connection between the pin and wire. 1.2mm and 2.4mm are common un-shrunk heatshrink diameters, and it comes in reels of 25m - 100m, or sometimes in shorter lengths.
It won't do anything for a dodgy solder joint, but assuming the joint is OK, it will give it some mechanical strength where it needs it the most. You'll get a pretty robust connection that way.

Looks neat too Smile

cheers,
Dave

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