Always nice to see more stripboard layouts! I've been meaning to go through the entire DIY section and weed out all the threads with stripboard layouts and post a page of links to them all for easy reference. The same could be done for perf too. Might take a while though.
Just a couple of things.
Vladosh: You might want to check the distance you have some of those resistors stretching. It may be too much without extending the legs with extra wire or adding a jumper along the way.
Nardu: Your diagram has cuts between the holes. How are you breaking the tracks this way? Are you using a knife? My first build I cut and scraped away the copper with a knife. It took ages! I now use a 3MM drill bit in a pin vice to drill the copper tracks where I need to break them. I drill just enough to cut the track, not all the way through which would affect the structural integrity of the board.
There is a youtube video of this module here if anyone wants to hear it prior to construction:
Last edited by -minus- on Sat Feb 09, 2013 12:24 am; edited 1 time in total
@ Nardu your layout looks Great and compact ,mine is just all over the place ,i knew i could simply repeat the parts somehow but i just draw along the way and @ Minus about putting the layouts together , i thought of it too .. even schematics ,just to have a type of Schematics Vault ..so many layouts and schematics are just scattered all over the Forum ,it'd be nice to have them at one place , Great Layout Nardu
You know Nardu .. i always wanna leave some space on a stripboard ,just a bit ,to let it breath ,it really never matters to me if it take a cm more or less ,anyway , you perfected the stripboard ,hats off
Another way to transfer circuits is to breadboard the circuit and make sure it works, then buy a proto board which matches your breadboard. It's simply a case of transferring your breadboard layout to the solder board. I'm not sure who makes it but I have seen strip board/vero/proto board which is printed with columns of strips with breaks already in it. It might be cheating though!
Joined: Mar 20, 2012 Posts: 1864 Location: Chicago
Audio files: 16
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 6:55 pm Post subject:
I've used the breadboard matching protoboards, and honestly it's not that simple, usually
Biggest drawback is that my breadboard has two channels on each side for power connections, but these usually only have one. And they don't have power lugs, so you lose 4 to 6 rows on one side to connector + caps. And usually it's *shorter* than my breadboard....
Can you tell I've used these a lot?
It is a good idea, not trying to throw stones, but there are considerations that need to be taken into account while you're breadboarding if you want to pick up and move it.
OK, so there isn't really an easy way out! I've just been trying to get a VCA working. I tried the Buchla 110 and had no luck on breadboard. So I tried the Yusynth one. It worked!! I was so happy! So I drew up a stripboard layout... and well... it doesn't work! I have got so used to this being the usual outcome that it no longer surprises me.
So today as I sit sleep deprived with yet another stripboard to go in the HUGE bag of failures I resolve to do the following...
Stop trying to pack a circuit into the size of a postage stamp! Taking the electricity around the board along the scenic route is only going to lead to tears, and magic smoke when you start prodding around trying to fix it. It is better to take a direct route even if it means your board will be 50% bigger. I seem to spend a long time trying to get a very small footprint... eliminating a row of holes here, a copper track there. It's not worth it.
Also, as it takes two or three goes for me to get any circuit working, I won't publish any diagram without having built it. As I am building several of each device I can at least be sure it is confirmed without spreading the heartache around to others.
Yeah not having a very successful day here... This turned out to be quite an off topic rant... sorry about that.
- minus those Bergfotron VCA's are great standard ,working good ,not over complicated ,just saying ... i'd build a Buchla too ,i know someone else on the forum couldn't get the buchla vca's working maybe some error on the schematic
Joined: Feb 28, 2011 Posts: 46 Location: Braila, Romania
Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 12:41 pm Post subject:
You know Nardu ... hats off ...
Thank you! (Ви благодариме! )
In romanian, we say = jos palaria ! (also common expression) = капи исклучување (machedonian google translation : I hope is good !) = hats off.
- Here, new style : mini 2x3 inch : work, don't use yet !
Buchla 194 classic mini.jpg
This image has been reduced to fit the page. Click on it to enlarge.
Yes, my bad
Built this today, stripboarded a CGS Mixer to another 50x100, so I can mount them parallel.
In case, have to re-wire, cause I've used to short wires, now I'm not able to mount it properly, but I can CONFIRM that the layout works like a charm.
I've used 860 pF instead of 910 (can't find), and only film caps (and electrolyts).
Can I post the layout of the mixer board? I should maybe I should ask Ken for his permission...
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