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Ray_Ketamu
Joined: Nov 03, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Germany
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Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2016 9:04 am Post subject:
DIY portable modularcase (Eurorack sized Buchla clone) Subject description: ongoing build and design report |
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hello all!
after viewing many high prieced cases i chose the hard and cheap way of DIY.
i had tons of thoughts and designs but i ended up with an sturdy allrounder. based on the ever genius buchla portable case design. i improved it by adding a stand/handle solution and outputs for triggers and the mainmixer on the back.
in this thread i will post my steps towards completion and will explain my design. many thanks to felix from the tuesday nigth machines and his post on which i based my work on https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/post-1626201.html
allthough my design is for eurorack everything except electronics can be converted to other formats. later on i will post the sideparts as a pdf so you can scale them as you wish. the rest is "unimportant"
first of all i will start with the specs of my desired end product.
-must be easy cause i´m a noob to electronics
-It must be portable therefor heavy-duty build
-I dont want to disconnect the cables on the module for transport
-also for studio use
-Microbrute, MFB Nanozwerg, Beatstep PRo and Jomox T-resonator must fit in
-2x3U Frames of 126 HP
-it needs XLR Stereo out for my Mainmixer
-Trigger outs for my Vermona DRM1 Mk3
-Switches that mute the trigger outs and can select a second channel of triggers from the modular
-buffered multis for VCO Pitch
-one row of spread out passive multis make-noise-style
-some attenuators
-make it cheeaaaaaaaap!!!! i`m so '*"§= poor
For the passive attenuators and multis there is not much to say:
http://www.doepfer.de/DIY/a100_diy.htm
For the buffered multi i had do go on a little bit deeper dig and found this scematic by daverj which was recommended:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/post-1445492.html#1445492
luckily the stereo mixer was a easy find and i took dintrees D-102. converting the output to xlr with a little help of a tekkie i know.
http://www.dintree.com/#D102
i come from germany so i can´t order stuff from australia, america without disobeying law "make it cheap". so i decisded to order PSU and busboard stuff from befaco
http://www.befaco.org/en/fuente-alimentacion/
and first just one frame (cause i only can equip one for the start) from click clocks:
http://clicksclocks.de/category/modular-synth/parts-for-eurorack-cases
with the frame i can later on cut my wood to the precise length and dont have to fiddle around with .03 mm stuff.
next will be a papermodel to check all my thougths for faults and gather the parts.
first Edit:
i forgot to mention that the microbrut, BSP, T-Resonator and the Nanozwerg will be attached with velcro to the case floor.
i am also thinking about adding a protectiv skin to the wood. but i cant make out which one it should be... perhaps i just drop the idea.
also added the dintree stereomixer layout from me. all panels i have to add will be wooden so coloring will be added.
overall i will use intelijel-style knobs because they are rather cheap but still look nice... and i can see them in a dark club.
rubber feets will be added to the "bottoms" of the case (in the end it will have two. one standing and one while transport)
hope this finds your interest and you perhaps find some other thougths for this case idea.
greets ansgar
first design is in zip file attachment
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_________________ Sound: https://soundcloud.com/stream Art: http://ketamuworld.blogspot.de/ |
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Ray_Ketamu
Joined: Nov 03, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Germany
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blue hell
Site Admin
Joined: Apr 03, 2004 Posts: 24079 Location: The Netherlands, Enschede
Audio files: 278
G2 patch files: 320
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Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2016 11:44 am Post subject:
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Ray_Ketamu wrote: | too stupid |
Nah, there is a limit of five attachments per post, that's all.
Nice case :-) _________________ Jan
also .. could someone please turn down the thermostat a bit.
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Ray_Ketamu
Joined: Nov 03, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Germany
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Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2016 12:06 pm Post subject:
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aha! thanks! i tried to attach the stereomixer pic about 5 times before accepting the fact that i am stupid
hope i will post more updates soon.
infact i found kind of the same design called the spacecase somewhere and it had an extra stand in the back... not integrated to the side holders. i skipped that idea beacuase it sves me money is more reliable and the case looks like a toolbox now. _________________ Sound: https://soundcloud.com/stream Art: http://ketamuworld.blogspot.de/ |
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PHOBoS
Joined: Jan 14, 2010 Posts: 5591 Location: Moon Base
Audio files: 705
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Ray_Ketamu
Joined: Nov 03, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Germany
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Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2016 3:55 am Post subject:
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thats a pretty good question phobos. one can make some carvings inside the sidepieces (professional) and have a bolt slide within it. like a rail so it will stop at a certain point.
or like i did. using the weigth of the top part and have it´s side pieces rest against the middle parts handle. I will upload a picture to clarify this later on. my english is rather bad.
i just cant remember the rigth words :/
no rubber feets. won´t work. i think a 45 degrees hinge could do the trick.
papermodel will tell me more. _________________ Sound: https://soundcloud.com/stream Art: http://ketamuworld.blogspot.de/ |
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Ray_Ketamu
Joined: Nov 03, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Germany
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LFLab
Joined: Dec 17, 2009 Posts: 497 Location: Rosmalen, Netherlands
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Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 3:11 am Post subject:
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This is what I was planning to do. As you can see the fully opened position is determined by the shape of the cheeks.
It will need something of a support, to prevent it from rolling backward, and I am working on a carrying handle. |
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Ray_Ketamu
Joined: Nov 03, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Germany
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Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 3:28 am Post subject:
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yes in the end it is just implementing what has been done by humanity the last 1000 years. guess some dozen more of same principaly the same solution out there
as you can see in the first post i used the handle as the resting support. perhaps that will do the trick for you too?
it would just mean your middle side part have to be redesigned a bit.
looks nice! _________________ Sound: https://soundcloud.com/stream Art: http://ketamuworld.blogspot.de/ |
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LFLab
Joined: Dec 17, 2009 Posts: 497 Location: Rosmalen, Netherlands
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Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 11:59 am Post subject:
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Was thinking of making a carrying handle as you would carry a toolbox, so carrying it the other way around, haven't wrapped my head round it yet. Something with folded tubing and stitched leather.
I wanted to make a slender foldable support at the back, maybe that's overcomplicating things as well.
Also haven't decided on how to make the boats, I can do some metalwork at work, so maybe just a folded "U" shape, and extruded rack rails.
So you are going to do a paper model? You could also do some 3mm MDF and have it lasercut at formulor.de, it's really not that expensive, but very precise. |
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Ray_Ketamu
Joined: Nov 03, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Germany
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LFLab
Joined: Dec 17, 2009 Posts: 497 Location: Rosmalen, Netherlands
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Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 2:01 am Post subject:
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Yes, I did see your picture, but I wanted the handle on the opening side, rather than the bottom.
So you can put patchcables inside and not have them falling out.
Regarding Formulor, the material is not expensive, but you also pay for cutting/engraving time. Just some cutting contours isn't going to cost much, but if you add a lot of engraving, it adds up!
Last time around, I payed about 120euros for 4 pieces of acrylic (their P1 size), which is about 10 eurorack frontpanels, so a lot of holes and lettering, but no other ornamental engraving. |
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Ray_Ketamu
Joined: Nov 03, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Germany
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Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 12:34 pm Post subject:
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okay... putting the handle on the frontside makes it way more complicated.
then you will need an extra stand for the back too.
shall your case be closed complety?
i will add a box underneath the powerbar for misc. stuff so it wont matter that much for me. but i think my solution will be much ruffer than yours.
i guess you are into diy a little bit longer then me
i think i will load up my files to their website and ask for the estimate price. i will see what they want for it. _________________ Sound: https://soundcloud.com/stream Art: http://ketamuworld.blogspot.de/ |
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LFLab
Joined: Dec 17, 2009 Posts: 497 Location: Rosmalen, Netherlands
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Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 4:29 am Post subject:
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Ray_Ketamu wrote: | i will add a box underneath the powerbar for misc. stuff |
That's a great idea, in my case, that box could also be the stand keeping it upright
And, I am a mechanical engineer, that's why I can make such technical drawings |
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Ray_Ketamu
Joined: Nov 03, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Germany
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Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 4:59 am Post subject:
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ah! and im an illustrator that still refuses 3d programs because he needs the time to practise oilpainting... seeing your case scetch though, i sometimes wish i had a 48 hour day to do both i finally made all parts as an illustrator file and will post them as soon as i have got rid off all the flaws. _________________ Sound: https://soundcloud.com/stream Art: http://ketamuworld.blogspot.de/ |
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LFLab
Joined: Dec 17, 2009 Posts: 497 Location: Rosmalen, Netherlands
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Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 7:03 am Post subject:
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Yeah, there's only so much time available each day
The program I use at work is Pro/ENGINEER (nowadays called Creo), and it is an enormously steep learning curve (oil painting probably has the same or even steeper learning curve )
It's probably obvious, but you will need to make sure all corners are connected properly. And you'll need to use formulor's templates (available for download on their site). Add rounded corners if you can, that'll make them less susceptible to damage. |
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Ray_Ketamu
Joined: Nov 03, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Germany
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