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Ol' Dirty
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PHOBoS



Joined: Jan 14, 2010
Posts: 5581
Location: Moon Base
Audio files: 705

PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 5:58 pm    Post subject: Ol' Dirty
Subject description: dirty distortion/fuzz effect
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Ol' Dirty started out as a feedback experiment with an LM386 which ended up as a
dirty fuzz/distortion effect. No calculations where involved in the design of the circuit, just some experimental breadboarding.

I added the light because it just happened to lay on my table (left over from my dancing santa) and I don't think it really effects the sound but it looks great.
The old steel box I used is something I had welded a very looong time ago, and I used nuts as knobs.

more information, photos and maybe more samples will be added to my website, but for know here's the schematic, a picture and a sample. (some of you will probably recognize the tune Wink)

of course feel free to ask any questions,..

edit: I noticed that I had posted the (old) schematic that didn't have the switches in it. So I changed it to the version with switches.


OlDirty.jpg
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PHOBoS - Ol Dirty demo.mp3
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Ol Dirty - Demo sample

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blue hell
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Sounds nicely fuzzy Smile
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Jan
also .. could someone please turn down the thermostat a bit.
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PHOBoS



Joined: Jan 14, 2010
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Location: Moon Base
Audio files: 705

PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 6:54 am    Post subject:  Ol Dirty info
Subject description: circuit description
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here's some more info:

The circuit has an input level control pot. followed by an inverting amp (U1). And an inverting output amp (U3) which mixes the original sound with the distorted sound, followed by a volume control pot. In between these two amps sits the main distortion/fuzz/feedback circuit build around the LM386 (U2). The 100K pot. controls the feedback level and you can set it from little distortion, bursts of oscillation noise, up to a point where the LM386 goes in to complete self oscillation. The 4K7 pot is the gain control and it controls the amount of fuzzyness. The diodes are used for hard clipping to create the fuzzy sound and they also make sure that the ouput level doesn't get too high.

Cool
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PHOBoS



Joined: Jan 14, 2010
Posts: 5581
Location: Moon Base
Audio files: 705

PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

and here's a better picture:

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

more info/pictures can be found at: http://phobos.50webs.com/elektroweb/oldirty.html

Last edited by PHOBoS on Wed Mar 17, 2010 10:07 am; edited 1 time in total
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germaniac



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hey PHOBoS,

That looks beautiful! How did you attach the knobs to the pot shafts?

Regards,
Joe

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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 10:01 am    Post subject: attaching knobs Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

germaniac wrote:

That looks beautiful! How did you attach the knobs to the pot shafts?


thnx Joe.

I tapped M6 thread on the plastic shafts, put a bit of glue (2 component epoxy) on the inside of the knobs and then just screwed them on.
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rosch



Joined: Oct 03, 2009
Posts: 164
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

hi PHOBoS!
it sounds great! i'd like to give this a try!

of course i have some n00b questions Smile
i guess this isn't just for line level input so i could also put in say a bass or guitar?
if i like to waive the lamp can i just leave it out together with the 10ohms resistor?

thanks for this cool fuzz!
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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

rosch wrote:
hi PHOBoS!
it sounds great! i'd like to give this a try!


Thanx, that would be great! Razz

Quote:

of course i have some n00b questions Smile
i guess this isn't just for line level input so i could also put in say a bass or guitar?


Well, unfortunaly i don't have a guitar myself so I can't test it. Usually guitar circuits have a higher input resistance (about 1M) and I think a guitar level is also very low so you need more gain. Therefore you would probably have to adjust the input circuit a bit. (you could also put an extra opamp before the input, or you could try this circuit)

I don't know if there's a volume control on the guitar but if there is the following might work: discard the 4.7uF cap. and 47K pot, change the 1uF to a 100nF and connect the input with a 1M resistor to GND. Change the 47K (connected to pin 2 of U1) to 220K and the 100K (connected between pin 2 & 6 of U1) to 1M. Of course you just have to test it for yourself to see what works, maybe you don't even have to change anything at all. Rolling Eyes

Quote:

if i like to waive the lamp can i just leave it out together with the 10ohms resistor?


Well that's what i thought, so I just tried it to be sure and it does make a big difference. I did some more experimenting and you could replace the '10ohm + lamp' with a 22ohms resister (0.5W or maybe 1W) but it doesn't sound the same. So I would suggest using a lamp, which also functions as a very nice indicator.

I just fried the original lamp while I was testing Sad, but I do have some similair lamps. They are not exactly the same so the sound is slightly different now. The new lamp came from a 3V scanradio/flashlight. Since I don't have anymore data of it, I measured the current at 3V and it's about 200mA. I think you need something like this: http://www.conrad.nl/goto.php?artikel=727164 .

If you're not discouraged and do decide to build it I would love to see/hear the result! Cool


edit: added link to booster circuit

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rosch



Joined: Oct 03, 2009
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

thanks for your explanations. i got the parts & will try it out. i already have a similar lamp, looks exactly like the one from Conrad, is also from Conrad but has 12V instead of 3V.
as such lamps are a ohm resistive load i thought i could also try a potentiometer i have instead of the lamp, if the correct functioning of the circuit depends on that power dissipation. it's a 10K 4W wire type. i'm curious how (if) that works but will try both...
but i'll rather not power it from batteries then (i guess).

thanks also for the link to the stompbox thread- and sorry you fried your lamp!
i'll try to record some sounds then, too (haven't done this with a computer yet)
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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

rosch wrote:
thanks for your explanations. i got the parts & will try it out. i already have a similar lamp, looks exactly like the one from Conrad, is also from Conrad but has 12V instead of 3V.

a 12V lamp will probably work though the sound will be different, but maybe it's for the better, Wink . I tried a 6V lamp (0.6W, bicycle rearlight) myself and I noticed that because of the larger resistance the oscillation frequency was lower, which makes sense.

Quote:
as such lamps are a ohm resistive load i thought i could also try a potentiometer i have instead of the lamp, if the correct functioning of the circuit depends on that power dissipation. it's a 10K 4W wire type. i'm curious how (if) that works but will try both...

I think the big difference with a resistor is the fact that the resistance of a lamp changes because of the amount of current flowing through it. This gives it a better/warmer? sound which you don't get with a resistor. So if you use a potentiometer you will be able to control the oscillation frequency but you won't get the same sound. 10K is probably way too big since I got an acceptable sound with a total resistance of only 22 ohms. But just try it, and see what it does. Though I would like to suggest using a series resistor while testing so you don't accidentaly burn the potentiometer or maybe the LM386.
I think a potentiometer with a low resistance in series with a lamp could actually be a very nice feature Very Happy (or maybe different lamps and a switch)

Quote:

but i'll rather not power it from batteries then (i guess).

No, you're right. Batteries will work but as you probably already guessed, they wouldn't last very long.

Succes!, I'm looking forward to hearing your results Cool

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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 7:02 am    Post subject: lamp testing
Subject description: testing Ol'Dirty with 3V, 6V, 12V & 24V lamps
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I ordered the 3V, 6V, 12V & 24V Conrad lamps to do some more testing. The 24V is pretty much useless. 12V works but doesn't really sound that great (very low oscillation speed), 6v is better but the 3V is by far the best choice Wink
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