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zipzap
Joined: Nov 22, 2005 Posts: 559 Location: germany
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blue hell
Site Admin

Joined: Apr 03, 2004 Posts: 24514 Location: The Netherlands, Enschede
Audio files: 298
G2 patch files: 320
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Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 3:35 am Post subject:
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Leaving out the resistors in principle makes the input voltage for the gates undefined, which could cause occasional trouble. Also the impedance on the port inputs is very high, and it is lowered by putting the resistors in, this means it will happen less often that your refrigerator is making the sync pulses
The wrong voltages you mention will happen with or without the resistors, but when the capacitors have small values (lets say some tens of nF's) the built in protection diodes on the gates' inputs will deal with that. For large capacitors you'd want to have external protection diodes and/or current limiting resistors.
The thing is that when you blow the internal protection diodes you'll not notice much, the part will become slower and it will draw more current on its input but it will probably just continue working (as the gates are not exactly stressed to their speed limits in this application). _________________ Jan
also .. could someone please turn down the thermostat a bit.
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zipzap
Joined: Nov 22, 2005 Posts: 559 Location: germany
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Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 10:16 am Post subject:
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Hello to Hell
Of course with gates i need pulldown resistors. I think there´s some misunderstanding. It´s the Gates i want to get rid of. So the thing in the shematic with the mark 40?? should be left away.
The cab is going direcly through the diode to the Gatebus. That goes to an pulldown resistor and a 4538 monostable multivib.
i just don´t know if i need a resistor between the cab and the diode for some reason.
The cab i juse right now is 22nf. [/quote] |
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blue hell
Site Admin

Joined: Apr 03, 2004 Posts: 24514 Location: The Netherlands, Enschede
Audio files: 298
G2 patch files: 320
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Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 10:53 am Post subject:
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Ok, yes I misunderstood then.
Without the pulldowns on the anode side of the diode it's not quite clear how current should flow on the negative edge of the input pulse, it would have to be the diode leakage which is small and not very accurate. On the next upgoing edge the capacitor will not be full discharged and so some extra current will flow into the bus line then and (so) the voltage will be higher. Doesn't seem to be a problem to me except that the pulses will have a less (probably mariginal) wel defined width.
I was thinking though, when you leave the gates in but make them open collector gates or TTL compatible and let them be inverting ones and then use an inverting amp after the bus you'd be able to leave the diodes out - that would save some work and some cost. The bus will be pulled low then instead of driven high, so you'll need a pull up on the bus instead of a pull down. _________________ Jan
also .. could someone please turn down the thermostat a bit.
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zipzap
Joined: Nov 22, 2005 Posts: 559 Location: germany
Audio files: 24
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Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 2:44 am Post subject:
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Thanks. So i can save a few resistors. The diodes are already soldered to the swiches so changing anything at that point would really lead into work!
I´m happy that this whole idea came to me. I think it´s a lot better than the and-ing of gate and clock that you see in many schematics.
If you keep the gates it would even be possible to have a gatelength pot for every step (i´m not gonna do that, besides there are other ways as well for vc-gatelength) |
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zipzap
Joined: Nov 22, 2005 Posts: 559 Location: germany
Audio files: 24
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zipzap
Joined: Nov 22, 2005 Posts: 559 Location: germany
Audio files: 24
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Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 2:48 pm Post subject:
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Ok, the first question is nonsense. Lets forget about it quickly! One swich would turn on the trigger for every step... of course.
I was only experimenting with two steps. This can happen if you try to go to fast and don´t look at the whole thing.
Remains only question 2.
cheers |
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