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Wogglebug circuit
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stolenfat



Joined: Apr 17, 2008
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

big thanks for the resource julian
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neandrewthal



Joined: May 11, 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 12:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi, my wogglebug is woggling alright, but the internal clock always stays at a constant speed regardless of control voltage or pot setting. I won't ask for troubleshooting help until I've done more in-depth testing, but I have a question before I continue. Could it be because I used NE555P instead of LM555N? Thanks.
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ATOM



Joined: Sep 20, 2004
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Location: Norway

PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 4:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

My two ghetto style wogglebugs.
Here's a sample:
http://home.no/atomatic/woggle.mp3

ATOM
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TekniK



Joined: Aug 10, 2008
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

bugglebogglebuchlala


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coombster



Joined: Apr 22, 2008
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Location: Bristol, UK

PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 2:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

received my parts kit from bridechamber but there was 3x 49,9k resistors missing. can i replace them by anything else as i fear my local hardware doesn't stock them ?

cheers
will
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frijitz



Joined: May 04, 2007
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 3:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

You could (maybe temporarily) use a series combination such as 47k + 2.7k.

Very Happy

Ian
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coombster



Joined: Apr 22, 2008
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 3:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

that sounds so crazy it might actually work !

so i should just solder them in line together and then just put the in place right ?
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frijitz



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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 3:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yep, that's it. The only possible problem would be if they needed to be high precision. You should preferably use 1% units for the 47 k's if you have them. But just to get the module working it shouldn't matter too much.

Very Happy

Ian
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drapdap



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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 4:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

No, its not crazy, i do that all the time, (if i don't find a special value,) resistors in series... Very Happy
Or just find a not-so-precise 50K that's just little off the specs.
i tend to find a lot of 49,9 when i need a precise 50k! Laughing
Measure them!!!

róbert
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prophei



Joined: Jan 27, 2007
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

stegoman wrote:
prophei wrote:
unit-sound wrote:
prophei wrote:

Sorry if I was unclear. I was asking if you had yet added it to the PCB version, presumably via protoboard. Very Happy


I'll test this tomorrow with my friend thommy from anyware-instruments. once i get results, i drop you all a note.


Thank you!


OUCH! Man, did I goof! It's still easy to add the Disturb input, but it hooks to the input side of the Woggle Range pot NOT the Smooth Range!

If you refer to the bottom of Richard Brewster's Wogglebug Block Diagram ( http://www.pugix.com/images/woggle-block.pdf ) you will see the overall layout of the Disturb circuit. The 'Stepped' output of the Woggle Tone Sample & Hold is feed into the Disturb 'B' input then on to the Woggle Range pot. The Disturb 'A' input is the external input we are adding. If you wanted, you could add another jack with normalization and make the Disturb 'B' an input that would override the S&H input (or disconnect it with an open plug). The actual circuit is shown at the bottom of the Woggle And Output Section ( http://www.pugix.com/images/woggle-wog.pdf ) although the S&H input connection is missing on the Disturb 'B' input (I'm sure that he has this setup as a normalization on the front panel). On the Wogglebug #3 PCB ( http://diy.czmok.de/fileadmin/wogglebug-schem.pdf ) the Woggle Range is hard wired to the S&H Stepped output. Connect the output of the Woggle S&H Stepped {output of R35 to input of R20} to Richard's disturb 'B' input and connect the output of Richard's circuit to the input of the Woggle Range pot {V4}.

If you look at all of Richard's schematics, they are VERY close to the Wogglebug #3 PCB we are getting and such mods are easy, if you connect then in the right place. The home page for his project is here: http://www.pugix.com/wogglebug.htm

I apologize to everyone for the mis-information and I hope this will resolve it.



yikes, i somehow missed this correction back in the day. good thing is that i built the disturb circuit, bad thing is that i never tested it connected correctly as i got distracted and went to work on something else Smile

i am actually doing better panels for all my modules soon, so this information comes at a perfect time for me to add those controls back. Smile
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mono-poly



Joined: Jul 07, 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Does anyone got a frack layout?
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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Sorry to resurrect this old thread....

So I started populating my second (of two) wogglebug pcb's, having foolishly sold my first one.

I also had the idea that I might want more boards eventually, and thought about learning the expresspcb/sch software in the process. In other words, entering the schematic into expressSCH and then creating a pcb layout in expressPCB.

I was curious if anyone has already done this - if I'm just repeating someone else's effort needlessly. Does anyone have the schematic entered into expressSCh, or eagle, or whatever and would be willing to share?

Also, does anyone know if there are any additional libraries for expressSCh tht would be helpful for synth pcb's?
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ericcoleridge



Joined: Jan 16, 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

There is at least one Wogglebug layout (for press n'peel) on the internet. I have a copy of it--it's a dual design--I beleive made by M. Verbos. But, are you asking specifically for an expressPCB design?

I also have one Wogglebug populated, and always had the intention of buying and building another, so that I could make a dual panel. I thought because Bridechamber was selling them that they would be continuously available...
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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yes, expresspcb. It's more of a learning project than anything else, but I figure if it works it'll be handy for those of us who just want a few boards for their low price deal. Just don't want to be reinventing the wheel if I can avoid it.

I wouldn't hold my breath - I've got a ton of other stuff on my plate, so to speak, so while I've gotten started on this, it could easily get back-burnered to death.
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ericcoleridge



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Well, if you're thinking of having some made, maybe you could just write the guy who originally offered the PCB. Maybe he's not interested in having anymore made himself, but wouldn't mind someone else doing a run. You've probably thought of this already...
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BananaPlug



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

FYI, Makenoise (who made some Woggles like the one below) has a new version in the works with some new features.


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fluxmonkey



Joined: Jun 24, 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ericcoleridge wrote:
There is at least one Wogglebug layout (for press n'peel) on the internet. I have a copy of it--it's a dual design--I beleive made by M. Verbos. But, are you asking specifically for an expressPCB design?

I also have one Wogglebug populated, and always had the intention of buying and building another, so that I could make a dual panel. I thought because Bridechamber was selling them that they would be continuously available...


i built a dual version from mark's layout. i posted some build notes and necessary corrections for this a couple years ago (page 2 of this thread). the notes are still there, but th image got lost in the site crash, i will look see if i have a copy. you would need to make these corrections in order to get it to work.

i'm actually planning on selling mine (since i now have an actual wiard wogglebug). it is a dual frac module behind a homemade panel. mark's design only brought out 3 of the controls to the panel, but that could be revised. if anyone's interested, PM me for more info.

bbob

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fluxmonkey



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

here's the corrections i made to mark verbos' wogglebug layout. Red indicates traces that need to be cut; green is for traces that need to be added; blue is for a pair of jumpers to ground that need to be added. corrections are shown for one side of the board, the same changes need to be made on the other side as well.

bbob


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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ok, debugging time again. Second time around - the first one worked perfectly, this second one, not so much.

Everything's finished, except for that little jumper cap that's supposed to kick start the cluster knob. I tried the unit without that cap, just to see if it worked without it, and everything worked fine except for the cluster knob. So I attached a small 2.2nf cap as directed, just like I did before, only now the tone output is way lower, and the cluster knob still doesn't work. I then tried disconnecting the cap - still not tone output (although the other 2 outs work). As far as I know the tone (smooth) cv is working. Any ideas? Did I brap a chip?
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sduck



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ok, tried some things, the cluster knob is working now. Still nothing from the Tone jack. I'm sure it was working before my experiments with the small bypass cap, so I'm pretty sure I must have blown up a chip, but which one? I'm no good at reading schematics - I tried replacing the TL074, no change. All the wiring is good, the smooth cv out works, everything else is working. Please, any help is appreciated!
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Luka



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

have you tried swapping the 4046s to see if one is kaput
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sduck



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yes, that's starting to be my prime suspect after poking around some more at the traces and squinting at the schematic and block diagram. I didn't do the neatest job of wiring layout, so it's probably easier to just order new ones and replace them than try to get them out intact and swap them.
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xpmtl



Joined: Aug 10, 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 6:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

hi all,

I'm trying to add the cgs led driver to the clock out but i got into trouble as the pulse seems inverted.

The led is bright all the time and goes off for a micro-second. Anyone got the same results?

Do I have to use an inverter or is there a simplier way to solve that?

Pulse looks like the first one in the image attached, for correct operation it should be like the second i think.

thanks


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6079smith



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Did you use the LED driver with the diode instead of the second 100K resistor? They're designed for audio/bipolar monitoring but I stick them on (nearly) everything and they work fine...

Edit: Doh! Of course, they're for positive excusions of audio signals. Funny, I still remember using them somehow with negative voltages. I'll get back to you in a bit...
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xpmtl



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

yes I tried with the diode, but it didn't changed the result much
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Last edited by xpmtl on Thu Mar 26, 2009 4:29 pm; edited 1 time in total
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