Schulte Compact A Phasing

jhaible · Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 4:08 pm Post subject:

Today I made a short visit at Touched by Sound, and it seems that they are now starting to gear up for producing ready-made phasers with my "Krautrock Phaser" PCBs. There was a guy who specializes in metalwork / enclosures, and another one who is ordering the components and will do the soldering. Seems they are now starting in earnest!

(I'm not really involved except selling them the PCBs, but of course I'm interested to see how things are developing!)

JH.

wooster · Joined: Jul 25, 2007 Posts: 63 Location: Austin, TX

I just got my phaser working last night. Well, mostly working. I feel like it needs to be better calibrated. Any tips for setting the range and resonance trimmers?

Here are some parts I used which worked fine:

Relay: Tyco V23105A5403A201 (from Mouser)

Heatsink: Aavid Thermalloy 523002B00000G (from Mouser) - this one fits the footprint perfectly

For the front panel lamp holder, I got a quote from Domax to order 500 pcs for $0.38 each, but I think I was making things too hard. I saw these when I went to buy batteries one day:

Front panel lamp holder: Radio Shack 272-325 - it fits the E10 bulbs I have, and works even though the bulbs don't have little tabs to twist into the base.

edit: I didn't mean to sound unenthusiastic in the first sentence, this phaser is really cool.

jhaible · Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 7:21 am Post subject:

numbertalk · Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 7:45 am Post subject:

Thanks I was wondering about setting the trimmers as well.

Any tips on setting the LowLim trimmer as well?

jhaible · Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 12:05 pm Post subject:

numbertalk · Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 12:16 pm Post subject:

markusw · Joined: Jun 16, 2007 Posts: 23 Location: Vienna/Austria

What actually is the reason for the two jumpers close to the "in " and "out" connectors layout-wise? Embarassed

jhaible · Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 12:21 am Post subject:

markusw · Joined: Jun 16, 2007 Posts: 23 Location: Vienna/Austria

numbertalk · Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 6:56 pm Post subject:

jhaible · Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 12:36 am Post subject:

numbertalk · Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:50 am Post subject:

jhaible · Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 11:13 am Post subject:

numbertalk · Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 12:41 pm Post subject:

Gotcha - thanks!

numbertalk · Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 6:08 pm Post subject:

What would I use if I wanted to insulate the transistors/regulators from the heat sinks? I've never used component heat sinks before - is there something specifically I could find at Mouser or somewhere?

Also my heat sinks didn't come with screws/bolt - any easy way to find the right one to fit the TO-220 components to the heat sinks other than to take a component and heat sink to the hardware store to figure it out?

Thanks.

wooster · Joined: Jul 25, 2007 Posts: 63 Location: Austin, TX

numbertalk · Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 7:10 pm Post subject:

numbertalk · Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 12:23 pm Post subject:

Found some 6-32 x 3/8 nuts and bolts and they're perfect.

Could someone help me with installing the heat sinks? Should the legs fit all the way into the pads for each one? I'm guessing not because my heat sinks would get in the way of nearby outlying components if they were to each sit flush on the board (they each extend a bit into the board beyond the yellow "footprint" for them). This could mean I have the slightly wrong sized sinks but they seem to match the Reichelt ones exactly - I compared the data sheets and someone else on this thread also mentioned using the ones I got. However, I went ahead and ordered the ones Wooster said were a perfect fit for him, but if anyone wouldn't mind providing some details regarding securing and soldering the sinks to the board that would be great.

Thanks.

wooster · Joined: Jul 25, 2007 Posts: 63 Location: Austin, TX

If you ordered the ones I used, then I would just wait until they come. They will fit the footprint and holes nice and snug. Otherwise you would probably have to saw off the tabs that go into the PCB or turn the heatsink upside down, and just rely on it being screwed into the transistor.

In either case I don't think you should solder the heatsink. I'm not sure it is possible. I tried and I couldn't get the solder to take to the heatsink. It could be the finish, or maybe the heatsink was doing its job and wicking heat away from the iron, not allowing the tabs to get hot enough. If it did get hot enough it would probably be dangerous for the transistor, because it could take a long time to cool down. The screw should be enough.

blue hell · Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 1:17 pm Post subject:

Usually heatsinks are made of aluminum which can't be soldered ... well ... it's nearly impossible and it needs special solder.

jhaible · Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 9:34 am Post subject:

numbertalk · Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 8:22 am Post subject:

Thanks for all the info. Wooster, got those heat sinks and you're right, they fit perfectly.

Another question - what exactly do the Rate and Amount inputs expect? I see that Bill & Will put "no cv!" on their panel, so these don't take CV, right? So are these for an expression pedal, something like the Moog EP-2?

jhaible · Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 9:49 am Post subject:

numbertalk · Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 2:33 pm Post subject:

Thanks!

Another question - I'm not 100% clear on how to wire up the Manual DPST. It looks like for 1 of the set of poles, one pole goes to pin 1 of Manual and the other pole goes to pin 2. Then for the other 2 poles, those are wired together and then both wired to pin 3 of Manual, which is wired to ground - is that right? Seems logically correct to me but wanted to make sure.

jhaible · Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 4:19 pm Post subject: