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DIY Buchla 200e Cabinet Rip-Off
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macumbista



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Anyone with the CAD files want to post them? The original poster seems to be MIA....
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macumbista



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

In case anyone else was looking for a free CAD program, I just checked out http://sketchup.google.com/ and it seems pretty easy to work with, and imports DXF and other CAD files.
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v-un-v
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I owe you guys an explanation as I've been away from the forum for a while (7 months! Shocked ).

I'll have another look at the CAD drawings soon- and the final product will be in PDF format, as well as STL files (so no expensive CAD packages to shell out for). But it will take a while.

Okay?

Tom
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Spir4L



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 3:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi! Very Good Job... I'm interested in trying to make a case similar to yours to start my first eurorack modular synth! (So I think I'll use the A-100 diy kit)

Is the pdf file ready?
Can I have the cad files?

Thank's to all you =)
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v-un-v
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I won't be posting CAD files, only 2D files in PDF format. Smile
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IST NICHT FÜR GEWERKEN BEI DUMMKOPFEN. DER RUBBERNECKEN SIGHTSEEREN KEEPEN DAS COTTONPICKEN HÄNDER IN DAS POCKETS MUSS.
ZO RELAXEN UND WATSCHEN DER BLINKENLICHTEN.
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ericcoleridge



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

v-un-v wrote:
I won't be posting CAD files, only 2D files in PDF format. Smile


Did you decide which format to design this case for. I'm hoping to find/make/buy one for 4 unit Buchla size modules.
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v-un-v
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 3:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Before I do anything, I'm going to have to up the hard drive size in my computer, so I can run XP in bootcamp. My PC's graphics capability simply isn't fast enough to cope with the assembly I made, but my Mac is (spin on that unkle k! Wink ).

I will be going for the euro/frac design, but I will try and modify it to 7" for you eric- because I said I would. Very Happy

When you say 4 unit modules, do you mean 4U high (7") or 4 panels wide?

Tom

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IST NICHT FÜR GEWERKEN BEI DUMMKOPFEN. DER RUBBERNECKEN SIGHTSEEREN KEEPEN DAS COTTONPICKEN HÄNDER IN DAS POCKETS MUSS.
ZO RELAXEN UND WATSCHEN DER BLINKENLICHTEN.
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seraph
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 3:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

v-un-v wrote:
spin on that unkle k! Wink

Tom, go on Cool

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macumbista



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

A little poke for this thread... my fake Buchla is coming along nicely. Panels are 4U high. Boats are steel, 433x178x60mm. Side panels were sketched out in Inkscape (free+open source alternative to Adobe Illustrator), a 2D program as there was no need to calculate depth. At this size, I could print each panel exactly on an A4!

Tip: a 45 degree angle for the side panels isn't quite enough to keep the thing from teetering on the edge of slamming shut, so I will be shaving a few degrees off them. When I get around to updating the Inkscape file, I can post either a PDF or an SVG file (which would be editable) of the project. As well as better pics.

To do:

1) Sharpen angle on wooden panels by a few degrees
2) New "kickstands" in the back to accommodate new angle
3) Purchase/mount power supply
4) Drill holes for + mount power bus boards
5) Drill + mount for XLR gooseneck lamp on top
6) Rivet boats (now only bolted)
7) Stain+finish wood
Cool Paint steel with black "hammerschlag" finish

Wish me luck!
D.


IMG_0875.JPG
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Fake Buchla 200e cabinet, 75% complete
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macumbista



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 2:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Second tip: if you want to leave your cables plugged in when you close the case, make sure you leave enough space at the point where the upper or lower boats swing over the edges of the middle boat. Looking at photos online, the real 200e doesn't look like you could leave the cables plugged when it closes. Can anybody confirm or deny that?

D.

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TekniK



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

macumbista wrote:
Wish me luck!
D.


Can't go wrong imo,it looks already very good
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ericcoleridge



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

This is really great; what are planning to put in the boats?
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cbm



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

You do have to unpatch the 200e to fold it up. Given that bananas can stack arbitrarily high, I'm not sure that a folding case could be designed that would allow for closing, while patched, on a banana system.
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macumbista



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
This is really great; what are planning to put in the boats?

Main items still under construction, but here is the master plan:
    * 4 x dual Thomas Henry XR-VCOs set up to imitate the Buchla 259 Programmable Complex Waveform Generator (prepatched AM, FM & PWM)(under development, one prototype 3/4 finished)

    * Quad joystick 4 x 4 CV matrix mixer (drawing up schemos now)

    * 4 channel quadrophonic spatializer (drawing up schemos now)

    * Dual Polyvoks VCF (boards finished, about to get paneled)

    * Dual Steiner VCF (boards finished, about to get paneled)

    * CGS Waver multiplier (finished)

    * CGS Super Psycho Modulation Source (finished)

    * Maybe some kind of sequencer (have boards for Klee)

    * Random LFOs (noise/sample&hold driven)(drawing up schemos now)

    * Tellun Neural Agonizer (have boards/parts)

    * Tellun Doomsday Machine (have boards/parts)

    * More distortions/waveshapers?

    * Output panel (banana to minijack & 1/4" jack converters)

So I guess this is where I'll need the luck!!!!!
D.

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macumbista



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

OK, I shaved a bit off the angle of the side pieces, but I'm still not happy. Initially I figured it would be ~45 degrees, but then the top boat still stands pretty much straight up, when it should lean back.

I guess any owners of a real 200e probably won't be reading this thread, but if they are, could you please measure the angle of the top and bottom boats respective to the middle one? This part is driving me crazy!

You can see in the pics that it stands very straight up. That has a couple drawbacks:

--the legs in the back have to be longer
--the middle boat isn't entirely stable. By pushing on it's lower edge it tilts...although I did finally see the flanges for the locking bolts on those little metal tabs at the rear of the middle boat: http://www.synthi.se/bcab/b4.jpg.

The wood I used it a bit thin for that, I had hoped proper balance would do the trick Wink Actually considering a rubber foot in the back to keep it from tilting when open...

Hmmmmmm........

D.


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Last edited by macumbista on Fri Jul 10, 2009 11:02 am; edited 1 time in total
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cbm



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I don't have any easy way to measure the angle. Would an end-on picture help you?
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macumbista



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi Chris,

sure, if it's directly end-on then I could work it out. Thanks!

D.

...wondering why a real Buchla owner would be checking up on people trying to fake it... Wink

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ericcoleridge



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Not sure if you're trying to make this exactly like your model, but are your boats the same depth as Buchla? Can that also have some effect on angle, weight and balance? I've read that the middle boat on these cabinets is deeper than the top and bottom to accommodate the PS.
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macumbista



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
Not sure if you're trying to make this exactly like your model, but are your boats the same depth as Buchla? Can that also have some effect on angle, weight and balance? I've read that the middle boat on these cabinets is deeper than the top and bottom to accommodate the PS.


Actually I don't know the original dimensions of the boats, but if you look here

http://www.synthi.se/bcab/b2.jpg

you'll see that there isn't much PS to accommodate!

No, the angle isn't "right" because I didn't think it through enough when I was drawing it up. I could have easily made it sharper. Of course, the case still functions just fine and I could easily use it just as it is. Perfect is the enemy of just-good-enough.

D.

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cbm



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

macumbista wrote:
sure, if it's directly end-on then I could work it out.

Hopefully this is end-on enough:
Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

Quote:
...wondering why a real Buchla owner would be checking up on people trying to fake it...

You do a search for Buchla, and you never know what you're going to find Smile

- C

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cbm



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

macumbista wrote:
Quote:
Not sure if you're trying to make this exactly like your model, but are your boats the same depth as Buchla? Can that also have some effect on angle, weight and balance? I've read that the middle boat on these cabinets is deeper than the top and bottom to accommodate the PS.


Actually I don't know the original dimensions of the boats, but if you look here

http://www.synthi.se/bcab/b2.jpg

you'll see that there isn't much PS to accommodate!


That's because it's hidden under the power distribution boat in the middle cabinet. Buchla uses a couple models of Cincon switching supply mounted to the underside of the power distribution board, using the case as a heat sink. Very slick system, IMO.

The middle boat is about 3/4" deeper to accommodate this.

- C

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ericcoleridge



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

cbm wrote:

The middle boat is about 3/4" deeper to accommodate this.


Chris,

As long as we're on the subject Very Happy , I'm guessing the middle boat is 3". Is that about right?
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macumbista



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
Hopefully this is end-on enough


That's great, I'll see what I can get out of it. That's one stacked system, my friend! Can't even count the cables there...

If I could request one more photo, it would be a close-up of the set screws on the back side, that you mentioned lock it into place (where I thought maybe gravity would do the job by itself).

Also....are those audio jacks coming out of the backside of the top boat?

Thanks much + best!
D.

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macumbista



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

And my other question is...with all those cables, and the fact that you have to unplug them before closing the case, what do you do when you have to pack it up for a gig?
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cbm



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ericcoleridge wrote:
As long as we're on the subject Very Happy , I'm guessing the middle boat is 3". Is that about right?

It's about right, for some values of about. The depth measured from the top of the mounting rail to the inside back of the boat is 3.2165" according to my calipers.

The top and bottom boat are 2.575", measured the same way.

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