Broken key on G2

jamos

I hate things like this. One of the keys on my G2 has gone dead (Ah - it just worked - briefly). I've got the case open, but I'll have to pull the whole keyboard to see what's wrong, if I can even see it (there's a circuit board along the bottom - no J-wires here!)

Can anyone give a suggestion of what to look for, or tips on getting it apart? Can I pull the individual key by removing the spring on the back?

TIA

Keysandslots · Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 8:31 am Post subject:

I've fixed a key on my G2X, broken during transit when I bought it. I think the fix is stronger than the original.

I think the G2X keyboard is not the same as the G2 so I may not be able to help much, but if I can get the thing apart, you can too. Just find a nice stable place to put the parts and keep everything in order and you'll be fine.

Randy

mtvic · Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 10:30 am Post subject:

When ordering your replacement make sure you identify which key it is..
I had to replace a key on the Nord Lead 2X and when I removed the broken
key it was embossed on the underside A.
Also when ordering I was asked which key.
If you remove the spring the key should just slide out. be careful.
m

jksuperstar · Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 10:52 am Post subject:

It sounds like your key is dead (not responding) not broken.

I just fixed/cleaned out two keyboards recently (Roland 8080 and a Novation Supernova). The two keyboards I worked on had about 3 or 4 dead keys between them, all work perfectly now. It involed disassembling the keyboard, and cleaning it out. Very easy to do with just screw drivers, alcohol/ether, and some cotton balls or q-tips.

Disconnect the .1" headers for the keyboard, and take the keyboard out (remove screws on bottom of G2). The Keys can then be separated from the PCB that's underneath them (I think the Nova & the G2 both source keyboards from the same place, Fatar I believe). There's a rubber mat between the keys and the PCB. It has conductive paint/rubber on one side of it, and two switches per key. Correct it if it is shifted, or lift it up and clean the PCB and rubber both with alcohol & q-tips. To lift it, just overcome your fear, and pull the rubber nipples out of the PCB holes. The tricky part is putting the rubber back on the PCB, but it's not difficult, just squeeze them together where the nipples align over the holes, and the rubber will find it's way back into the PCB. Re-assemble and play!

jamos · Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 3:52 pm Post subject:

Yes, you're right: it's dead, not broken. Thx for the tips; I'll disassemble it... soon.. probably after I tear down my son's old basketball hoop and assemble the new one, but before I repair the broken case on his DS lite... and I don't even have a plan for fixing the leaky toilet.. but I definitely need to fix the dryer at work that some fool cut the grounding plug off...

All smiles now.

jamos · Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 3:17 pm Post subject:

OK, it's fixed. Thanks for the tips, jk. For those contemplating this, it's an easy fix - just a lot of screws to remove; but nothing tricky. When I opened it up I discovered that part of the rubber mat was pulled up right next to the dead key. I almost reseated it and closed the whole thing up; then I realized that the loose mat may have allowed dirt to get in, so I pulled it off and - uh-huh - tiny speck of white junk on the black conductive surface. Qtips, alcohol, reseat the mat, connect the cables, replace approximately 30 screws.. works perfectly now.

jksuperstar · Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:52 pm Post subject:

Sweet, glad to hear another life extended!

Derek Cook · Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 2:47 am Post subject:

And I bet you fixed it before everything else on that list! Very Happy

It's hard to track down these days, but I always keep a few cans of "Servisol" switch/contact cleaner in the house.