Nord Electro 2 - blown power supply?

ironmaggie · Joined: May 01, 2007 Posts: 3 Location: melbourne

Hi, I bought a US Nord Electro (115v) and took it back to Australia, and plugged it into the mains (240v) not realising I needed a step down converter Shocked

I was too excited and didn't check the voltage!! Sad

. So it doesn't work now with the step down converter - is it likely I have blown the fuse? if so, how do you replace it ? or do I need a whole new power supply - and are these hard to replace myself? Any help would be really appreciated! Thanks,
George

Wout Blommers · Posted: Tue May 01, 2007 5:00 am Post subject:

Between the Power On/Off button and the shield carrying the serial number and the voltage value, there is a small thingy you can open with a screwdriver. There is the fuse. Check it, although I should bring it to a special repairman, because there could be some more damaged parts. There has to be another amp value on the fuse to protect it. I don't know the exact value...

Maybe the dealer can give some information?

or over here:
http://electro-music.com/forum/viewtopic.php?highlight=fuse&t=11535
although it's the reversed situation, so it has to be twice the value???
Check this, please...

Wout

blue hell · Posted: Tue May 01, 2007 9:12 am Post subject:

A few months ago another Australian did the same thing with a Nord Modular. He was lucky, just the fuse was blown. The story is somewhere on the forum here.

Another fuse Amp value is only needed when the internal power supply is modified - don't know though if that is possible for an electro. Probably it could be done, I suppose the same sort of supply would be used as for the NM's. Anyway when it's done double the voltage means half the Amperage for the fuse.

When instead it's used with an external step down transformer just replace the fuse with one having the same specs as the blown one.

ironmaggie · Joined: May 01, 2007 Posts: 3 Location: melbourne

thanks for your help - I did find the little pop out fuse on the back of the Electro. There is a brown 'burn' mark on the fuse glass, so it's very likely blown. I will get an exact replacement fuse, a 300mA fuse (as I will use a step down converter). The 300mA fuse goes with 115v correct? Otherwise, if I got a 125mA fuse and switched the little internal switch to 230v and didn't bother with the step down converter will that work too?

I hope it is just the fuse that's blown and not the whole power supply!! I'll find out tonight. Cheers,

blue hell · Posted: Tue May 01, 2007 8:07 pm Post subject:

ironmaggie · Joined: May 01, 2007 Posts: 3 Location: melbourne

I replaced the fuse and it now works fine! Thanks for your help on here.

Wout Blommers · Posted: Wed May 09, 2007 12:03 am Post subject:

Have a nice time!

Wout

blue hell · Posted: Wed May 09, 2007 9:17 am Post subject:

Cool !

Shy · Joined: Oct 26, 2007 Posts: 3 Location: Israel

I'm in a similar situation, only with a Nord Rack 2X which also has a 115V/230V power switch. Its has a "Bussman MDL 3/10A, 250V UL 5A" fuse. I just want to know, since I don't wanna blow the fuse, will it work fine with 230V? Or do I really need a 125/150mA fuse?

blue hell · Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 6:34 pm Post subject:

shy

Shy · Joined: Oct 26, 2007 Posts: 3 Location: Israel

Hi Blue Hell Smile

.

Yes, that's all that's written on the two sides. The sticker on the back of the synth by the way, says "Fuse T 300mA L".

I really know nothing about protection in fuses. Searched the web, but probably not well as I don't know terms, so found nothing. So, does that mean it could suddenly burn out due to the slightest electrical imbalance when I use 230V?

Thanks, and sorry for the so unsynthy questions Smile

.

blue hell · Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 7:00 pm Post subject:

I'd recommend to go find a 150 mA slow blow (T) type of fuse then - and don't forget to switch it to 230 V Wink

Shy · Joined: Oct 26, 2007 Posts: 3 Location: Israel

Alright then. It's frustrating that they don't simply include a 150mA fuse with the synth. I mean they give us a hassle saving voltage switch, but we have to hassle and get a different fuse anyway Smile

.

OK, no more fuse talk! Back to synthesis.

/me is listening to Fusion

blue hell · Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 7:19 pm Post subject:

mikekay · Joined: Feb 05, 2008 Posts: 3 Location: Melbourne

Hey guys, I'm having a similar issue. My US 115V Nord Electro 73 arrived yesterday and as I intended to open it up and change the voltage setting (there IS a selector switch yes?). Having an incredible time actually working out how the thing opens...does anyone know which parts I should be unscrewing...

Mike

Wout Blommers · Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 1:56 pm Post subject:

mikekay

There are five screws at the back, on the red hood. Remove these.
Two at each side will loosen the wooden side panels.
There are three screws (the same size as the five on the back) which has to be removed.

And keep the cat away!

Wout

mikekay · Joined: Feb 05, 2008 Posts: 3 Location: Melbourne

Wow, thanks WB for your quick response.

Could you clarify which set of three screws these are? I found all the others no worries, but I'm guessing these other three are the ones holding the panel down...

Wout Blommers · Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 2:48 pm Post subject:

I'm sure they are...

The two rows of screw which are on a little bed are used for mounting the Keys. But there are three more.

Wout

mikekay · Joined: Feb 05, 2008 Posts: 3 Location: Melbourne

Thanks very much, got inside and switched it no worries Smile

Wout Blommers · Posted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 2:14 am Post subject:

And get it together again...? Wink

Wout

(No need to answer Smile

)