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best paint for HAMMOND metal box??
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loss1234



Joined: Jul 24, 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 6:30 am    Post subject: best paint for HAMMOND metal box?? Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i got a few hammon aluminum boxes (silver)
i want to make a few tiny synths/noisboxes.

what is the best way to pain these a solid color. i was thinking spraypaint?

thanks

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-------------------------------------------- check out various dan music at: http://www.myspace.com/lossnyc
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scriptstyle



Joined: Jan 22, 2008
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 6:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

rustoleum is king!!!
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creatorlars



Joined: Nov 26, 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I have the best luck with Duplicolor spray paint found at auto-supply stores like AutoZone. It goes on a lot smoother than Rustoleum. Rustoleum is great, though -- just be sure to get some steel wool to polish it up afterwards.
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Dan Lavin



Joined: Nov 09, 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Loss,

I have good luck following method: (after you drill all your holes)
1. Use automotive primer spray paint if bare metal first Let it dry 24 hours. Skip this step if it already has a coat on it.
2. Use automotive spray paints: they're made for metal and they dry hard. Let it dry 24 hours
3. Put labels on ( I use Lazertran, but have had OK luck with Testors) Let it dry overnight
4. Use an automotive clear coat spray. Let it dry for 48 hours
5. Bake it in the oven set for 225F (~100C) for 30-60 minutes. I learned this from Thomas Henry. It really makes the clearcoat shine and makes the surface incredibly hard! Make sure you remove any rubber feet, etc. that would be destroyed by the heat! Let this "dry" for a day before attaching pots, switches, etc.
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scriptstyle



Joined: Jan 22, 2008
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Location: nj

PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

if you are looking for a nice gloosy professional look go with the above steps and automotive paint.

if you are looking for a flat or satin finish i would def stick to rusto flat or accents satin they are by far superior in paint quality to any other spray paint. if you want real fancy color in gloss at a price you might want to check out montana or belton paints.
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loss1234



Joined: Jul 24, 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ok great!

i figure i will spray paint and the use a paint pen for labelling.

now i should paint before i drill or after?

thanks

_________________
-------------------------------------------- check out various dan music at: http://www.myspace.com/lossnyc
http://www.myspace.com/snazelle
http://www.soundclick.com/lossnyc.htm http://www.indie911.com/dan-snazelle
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StephenGiles



Joined: Apr 17, 2006
Posts: 507
Location: England

PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

antman49443 wrote:
Loss,

I have good luck following method: (after you drill all your holes)
1. Use automotive primer spray paint if bare metal first Let it dry 24 hours. Skip this step if it already has a coat on it.
2. Use automotive spray paints: they're made for metal and they dry hard. Let it dry 24 hours
3. Put labels on ( I use Lazertran, but have had OK luck with Testors) Let it dry overnight
4. Use an automotive clear coat spray. Let it dry for 48 hours
5. Bake it in the oven set for 225F (~100C) for 30-60 minutes. I learned this from Thomas Henry. It really makes the clearcoat shine and makes the surface incredibly hard! Make sure you remove any rubber feet, etc. that would be destroyed by the heat! Let this "dry" for a day before attaching pots, switches, etc.


...and don't forget to borrow your mum's/wife's oven gloves! Rolling Eyes
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loss1234



Joined: Jul 24, 2007
Posts: 1536
Location: nyc
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 3:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

thanks antman---i didnt see your reply before when i asked about drilling.

now, can i get these automotive paints at any store or are they special?

also, is lazertran the same as the dymo labelmaker?

thanks

_________________
-------------------------------------------- check out various dan music at: http://www.myspace.com/lossnyc
http://www.myspace.com/snazelle
http://www.soundclick.com/lossnyc.htm http://www.indie911.com/dan-snazelle
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Dan Lavin



Joined: Nov 09, 2006
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Location: Spring Lake, Mi, USA
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 5:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Loss,

you can buy the automotive paints at any car store like Pep Boys, Autozone, PartsPlus, etc. I use whatever looks good colorwise...whatever brand it is...nothing special. I suppose if I were actually painting a car that was sitting outside I'd be more careful.

Lazertran is a water activated decal like they use for plastic model cars. You print your panel, lettering, etc. on the lazertran paper using your printer, soak it in water for about 30-45 seconds and apply to the surface. It will have a white background initially when dry, but the clearcoat turns the white part transparent when applied. I like Lazertran because the decals are fairly strong and not too prone to ripping. A number of E-M Forum members use this method.
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prophei



Joined: Jan 27, 2007
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Location: san francisco, ca
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 7:08 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

BIG thumbs up on the lazertran!
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synthmonger



Joined: Nov 16, 2006
Posts: 578
Location: flada
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Make sure you do it in an oven you don't normally cook food in, or you'll poison yourself.
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