"Son Of Storm Tide" Flanger

numbertalk · Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 3:14 pm Post subject:

Hi JH, a few more questions:

1) Is a 1W zener ok for the 10W diode, if it will fit the footprint on the board?

2) You mentioned something about temperature with the '5mm' caps in the BOM - for the really low values (33pf, etc) do you mean that one should/could use NP0/C0G? Or do you not mean stability with temperature but rather their ability to handle temperature and not meltdown so if possible use film here?

3) The 1uf non-polarized, this should be an electrolytic? I'm assuming so, since you say non-polarized, but just making sure elec is preferable to film here.

4) Is the difference in the bounce polarity drastic enough I might want a panel toggle for it? I ask because I always order my panels before I start a project, so won't be able to try it out first (could always leave it off and drill it later, but would just as soon include it when I design it).

5) Finally, just confirming, no need for on-board fuses when using AC power? Of course there will be an external fuse.

Thanks!

jhaible · Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 3:41 pm Post subject:

1) Is a 1W zener ok for the 10W diode, if it will fit the footprint on the board?

Should work

2) You mentioned something about temperature with the '5mm' caps in the BOM - for the really low values (33pf, etc) do you mean that one should/could use NP0/C0G? Or do you not mean stability with temperature but rather their ability to handle temperature and not meltdown so if possible use film here?

Don't worry. Just use what you can get.

3) The 1uf non-polarized, this should be an electrolytic? I'm assuming so, since you say non-polarized, but just making sure elec is preferable to film here.

Film is always preferable to electrolytic, if it fits into the pcb space.

4) Is the difference in the bounce polarity drastic enough I might want a panel toggle for it? I ask because I always order my panels before I start a project, so won't be able to try it out first (could always leave it off and drill it later, but would just as soon include it when I design it).

I'd try what you like better, and then put a jumper to that position.

5) Finally, just confirming, no need for on-board fuses when using AC power? Of course there will be an external fuse.

You need primary and secondary fuses.
On some of my PCBs, the secondary fuses are already there (because there was PCB space left). On PCBs where they are not included, you need them anyway (off-board).
Only if you're using a short-circuit-protected mains transformer (like many wall warts with AC output), you can omit the extra secondary fuse. (Because it's already part of your short-circuit-protected mains adapter)

JH.

numbertalk · Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 3:45 pm Post subject:

Thanks!

So what rating of fuse for the secondary ones?

jhaible · Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 3:51 pm Post subject:

numbertalk · Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 3:54 pm Post subject:

Thanks.

numbertalk · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 7:26 am Post subject:

I'm finding that the B80C1500 is difficult to source in the U.S. - any possible replacements for this?

Also will any germanium diode do? I'm finding one with the description "work-alike for 1N34a and others".

Finally, those 100uf caps near the CD4007 are really only 6V?

Thanks.

jhaible · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 9:30 am Post subject:

numbertalk · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:08 am Post subject:

jhaible · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:20 am Post subject:

Both look good.

JH.

numbertalk · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:24 am Post subject:

numbertalk · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 2:24 pm Post subject:

Another parts question - the LFO selection toggle is a SPDT center-off, right? How is it wired exactly?

jhaible · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:08 pm Post subject:

numbertalk · Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 8:47 am Post subject:

I swear I checked and totally missed this. My bad. Thanks!

sduck · Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:11 pm Post subject:

I may be going blind. Quick question - the BOM lists 13 1N4148 diodes, but I can only find spots for 12 of them. Am I missing one somewhere?

Also, the GE diodes - I have 2 kinds here; 1N34A and NTE110A. Which ones should I use? Does it even make a difference?

Thanks!

jhaible · Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 9:56 pm Post subject:

sduck · Posted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 7:00 pm Post subject:

Quick question - on the audio wiring doc, which side of the resonance pot is cw?

Also, calibration instructions? Are they available yet?

Edit - oh, found your brief instruction a page back. Just got everything assembled, and it seems to work. May need a bit of minor debugging - I.E. the resonance section doesn't seem to be doing anything yet, but I'm not sure what everything does yet, so it may be something trivial.

Edit a few minutes later - oh, for some reason the resonance on/off switch is backwards. But it works!

sduck · Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 8:33 pm Post subject:

Just got done tweaking the trim pots - and then experimenting for a loooong time. Wow! What a sound this thing can make!

I rechecked my wiring against your audio wiring chart, and am fairly convinced there's a mistake at the resonance on/off switch - although I've made triply sure I have it wired according to your sheet, resonance only works when it's in the off position. Not a big problem, as I'll just reverse the wiring.

I'm still not sure what the Env Mod and Env Release knobs do, but they certainly do some interesting things.

jhaible · Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 11:45 pm Post subject:

numbertalk · Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 5:59 am Post subject:

sduck · Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:43 am Post subject:

sduck · Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:44 am Post subject:

Another question. The bidirectional led - mine doesn't work. At least not like I think it's supposed to. At first I had it wired as per the directions, and it stayed on red the whole time, no matter where any of the knobs were set. So I reversed it, thinking I may have misread the polarity, and now it's stuck on green all the time. Am I misquided in how this is supposed to work? I used the same kind of lumex bidirectional led I used in the FS1a, and it works right in that module.

jhaible · Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:28 am Post subject:

jhaible · Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:37 am Post subject:

sduck · Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 12:31 pm Post subject:

Woops! I guess that was just presumptious, wishful thinking on my part. I guess I just wanted some sort of light show from the led that's hung off the Manual Sweep knob. Sorry!

So, should that led indicate anything besides the unit being powered on? That's all mine does. If that's it, then we're done, everything's working, I'm happy!

jhaible · Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 12:34 pm Post subject: