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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Lunettas - circuits inspired by Stanley Lunetta
Power supplies
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mosc
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:17 am    Post subject: Power supplies Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Most CMOS logic will work well on 5 Volt DC supplies. Before starting to build a Lunetta, it's a good idea to start with a good 5V DC supply.

This topic is for people to post designs for such supplies, or places where they can be obtained, etc.

CMOS logic uses very low power, so it is possible to use batteries. Standard AAA, AA, D, and C cells are about 1.5 V. So 3 or 4 in series makes a usable supply and your Lunetta becomes portable.

Please post power supply designs here, as well as questions and comments.

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Clack



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I just based this off the lm317 datasheet and other sources I could find cos its quick to lay out - and i know how to do it! Very Happy .

Based on the LM317 - PSU2 version is probably better - all resistors in ohms not Kohms

6.5-20v dc needed


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blue hell
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I'd not use the adjustable one ... even bad old TTL is happy from 4.75 to 5.25 V , so it's not too critical.
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also .. could someone please turn down the thermostat a bit.
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Clack



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

oh right ok.. cool. Bit over the top then! to be honest they dont really need schematics there is barely any parts - I guess a little PCB/Stripboard layout is all that is needed
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williamsharkey



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

<- newbie


Why regulate voltage when one can combine household batteries in series and parallel to obtain ~5 volts.

Is this for people who: don't want to use batteries and have a dc power supply in the range of 6.5 to 20 volts?
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yeah, it works with most dc wall warts ( you find them everywhere theese days - it will work with most ) - its especially usefull if you want some LED's. too many of them an it will not take long to drain battery power. Batteries wont need regulators

Im not a great fan of batteries when you use them in your bedroom - it seems a waste - although im sure you could say using mains is a waste too.

As blue hell said though - using this regulator is probably a bit over the top - i'll leave it up anyway. but a lm7805 is probably better - they are easy to find sometimes in electronic junk too.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Mr Clack wrote:
As blue hell said though - using this regulator is probably a bit over the top


Didn't mean to say that .. did mean to say that the adjustable one (the one with the trimmer) would be over the top Very Happy

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also .. could someone please turn down the thermostat a bit.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

oh right, heh - I just put that on because 680R is the nearest value I can get
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Why is C2 drawn differently than C1, do they represent different types of capacitors?

Perhaps the order of connection of the leads matters in C1?
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23isgood



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Why not just build one of these new power supplies from MFOS? I hate wall warts but this is pretty easy to build.

http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/analogsynth/WALLWARTSUPPLY/WALLWARTSUPPLY.php

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

williamsharkey wrote:
Why is C2 drawn differently than C1, do they represent different types of capacitors?

Perhaps the order of connection of the leads matters in C1?


C1 is a polarized capacitor, e.g. an electrolytic or tantalum, which will most likely have a stripe with a "-" symbol indicating the negative lead. It must be oriented correctly, or at best will not work and at worst will explode. I've seen capacitors explode, it's amusing but dangerous! The funny thing is it was in a class at school where we were accidentally given electrolytics rated at a lower voltage than the power supply for the circuit. When the first cap popped, we all assumed they'd oriented their cap incorrectly. Then mine blew up and somebody checked the voltage rating and it was not up to par. Blame the lab tech Laughing. Anyway for the rest of the semester we always checked the voltage ratings on the caps!

Any capacitor rated at a higher voltage than the wall wart you're using should be fine. For instance with a 12VDC wall wart, a 16V capacitor will be fine.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
Any capacitor rated at a higher voltage than the wall wart you're using should be fine. For instance with a 12VDC wall wart, a 16V capacitor will be fine.


What if you have two 10V capacitors. If you place them in parallel, I wonder if they can handle more than their individual ratings?

(I know not to do any sort of experimenting with power supplies, so you can answer the following question unhindered by safety concerns )
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

In this instance, the cap comes after the voltage regulator, after the voltage has been regulated down to +5V. You'll be fine with a 10V cap.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 3:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

For future reference:

If you have two 10V caps, you can put them in series and they will behave like one 20V cap at HALF the farad rating

Two 10V 20uF caps in series would give you a 20V 10uF cap
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